[maxryde]

Hey Brent, yeah I've done a few Plate glass repairs. The process was simple enough. I recieved a kit via Glass Mechanix that has a set up and resin for the repairs. I ended up doing it my own way as I couldn't get a good fill useing the equipment as designed. My technique is to tab from the outside with a strip of mylar coated with regular pit resin, then cure that. Now with another tab on the inside, (unless the shot came from the inside) Make a notch at the centre of the tab as it alligns with the break. Then useing a syrenge inject the break while holding the tab to the glass, at the very last moment it fills to the top, hold for a few seconds to be certain of no air then proceed to over fill slightly. What I mean here is to hold the tab slighty away, not enough to leak severely but enough to allow for all the air to rise above your entry point. Finish your fill while slideing your tab up slightly, then cure. The cure is like 15 mins with a high quality lamp. Ac is reccommended here. Dc fades to quickly on the long term cures, especially when you have a few back to back. The battery thing is just a problem, I think, if you have an ac lamp it's the way to go. Not that DC won't work you just have to have a strong power source if you go that route.

Now for the $ thought, we get 10 to 15 % of the value of replacement, given the fact that a replacement will exceed $1000. more often than not a mere $100. dollars is just change. We charge per payne not per chip. So a store front that has SINGLE payne plate is fair game. That is old style as the new stuff is all double payne. Now if you can come up with a repair for that, the market is going to improve. Otherwise it's a soon to be gone market anyway. I have only done a few, in my experience the damage was spread over the whole store front, not just one payne. If there was only one I would lean toward the 15% mark. JMO. thx, Scott