Quote:
Originally Posted by SGT
Thanks for joining and sharing your knowledge with us. I am a fan of radiant heat over forced heat and use the drystar. My method may differ from most for drying out as I do not allow the drystar to actually touch the windshield. Instead I preheat the drystar, hold it just barely off the windshield, do 3 cycles at 18-20 sec., let the windshield cool in between cycles and keep the element pinpointed over the damage. I have had very good success with this method but am curious what you think.
1. Did you hold your drystar directly on the glass?
2. Did you put the drystar on the glass and then start the heat cycle to allow it to gradually increase to avoid a thermal shock?
3. How many cycles did you use on average?
4. What was your cycle durations?
5. What is the temp that drystar reaches?
I would like to hear more about how you use this tool for other purposes especially air pockets. What is your recommended cycle/ duration for this technique.
Brent maybe you could jump in to advise on the effect extreme heat may have on the resin, at least DK resin if the drystar was used to remove air pockets as Barry describes.
Thanks again for spending time here with us.
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#1 yes and no, I touch the glass with the edge of the ring thats on the element and keep the other 99.9% of the ring off the surface, it also helps stabilize it easier.
#2 I heat the drystar first till I see the element start to turn slighty orange then put it on the glass. If one is worried they could turn it on at the same time as you put it on the glass as you describe and then just add another cycle. that would be a bit gentler and safer but will add 20 seconds to the dry time! there are small varients, sounds like you have it down.
# 3 1-2 cycles on average.
#4 20 second durations.
#5 orange, I forgot what temp. the color orange represents,
#6 1 duration of 2-3 seconds for air bubbles, element orange when applied,if that doesnt do it, I resort to pressure curing.
Hope that helps.