Quote:
Originally Posted by gt_repair
Blind Squirrel
I drill just deep enough to get into what I call the vain of the chip, that is about 25 - 50% into the first layer of glass. Just deep enough
I also use smaller bits from what DELTA uses. I use bits from GT that are .035 for everyday drilling and .025 for drilling in a crack line when needed.
The bits that DELTA uses average .047, .039 and their smallest is .024.
It is like shoping for cereal, so many kinds. What to buy, what to buy.
I do not like the ball type head style, they tend to want to break off in the hole.... I do not drill bearing straight down. I do peck into the hole so I do not burn the bit.
My holes are hard to see when drilling. So I will say again you can drill without have the hole shown.
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If you have to drill to get the break to fill I have no beef with your technique. My point was simply that if you don't have to drill, why would you? We don't have to drill with the Delta Kits system, so we don't.
In anticipation of the next question, "Why do you sell burs then?", let me say this. I did not say I never drill, just that I rarely drill. I do drill at the end of long cracks and I use a .047 bur for that purpose as that size seems to work best for tapping a bullseye. This is another technique that I did not use for years, but was taught by one of my customers a number of years ago. Never too old to learn. I use a .024 to bur to drill a starter hole if there is no surface chip at the impact hole, but that is very rare. Most of our customers prefer the .039 bur for this purpose however, so we included the .039 and the .047 burs in our complete windshield repair systems.
I too used to drill much more often, but subtle advances in the equipment we use have made it unnecessary for the most part. This blows people away at trade shows, especially when repairing small star breaks with tiny surface chips at the impact point.