Re: Drilling Philosophy 101
Brian
What I do is drill about 1/8 - 1/4" in front of the crack. I drill just to the lamination with out really going crazy. I work with two hands and you know you can JUST feel when it is going to break through to the lamination and stop there... I start with a new bit each time to keep the heat down...
I will take the back side of my pribe and tap the glass to walk in to the break(holding breath).
( my method ) The way I came about flexing it, or pushing it from the inside with my back side of my probe was to releive the presure as it if I was puting a crackjack on the inside right on the drill point to open up the crack. That takes the presure off it at that point and I do not have to tighen the jack so hard for that last bit.
FOOT NOTE: Just like some cracks, you can read it all you want and say it will go this way and it will go that way instead. That is why I also use smaller bits. It is a smaller hole to hide.. My customers know the chances I am taking and it does pretty good for me for about 12 or so years. It took a while before I found this method. I will stand behind this 200%. Once you see what I done, you will say, Sh#t, I could do that.
Get an old junk yard car and do it in the car. not a windshield on a rack. It will not be the same... Try it on a friends car with full glass (as a back up) and let them know you need to try a new method.
I will tell you I am just as picky at what I do also. I treat every car with the best respect. It could be a junker to us, but that is all the customer may be able to afford.
I have the used lots calling me in before they have to replace the glass to see if I can stop and hide the cracks...
I hope you try it before slaming me on what I do..... It works.
Good luck.
Last edited by gt_repair : 04-22-2008 at 08:31 PM.
Reason: added info
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