Rain X treated windshields

[Chips be-gone]

Engineer

I read that also, but I got tired from kicking the ball up hill and getting no ware. His home work was done in a few hours anyway, not a week as asked. That is why is was (sputtering). It was still wet...

I decided to let the dead dogs lay on this one....

Thank you for also thinking on your own, instead of being a follower.

[Brent Deines]

OK guys, I think I did my homework assignment the way you wanted me to this time, but the results were predictably very similar, except for the sputtering.

1. Improper Rain-X application: Sprayed Rain-X on the glass directly on a fresh bullseye, rubbed the Rain-X into the break with a paper towel, allowed first application to dry, then repeated the process and buffed with a dry paper towel after the second application had dried. The bullseye was almost completely filled with Rain-X at this time.
2. We allowed one week for the Rain-X to age for one week. As expected, the Rain-X began to evaporate from the break almost immediately, and by the end of the aging period there did not appear to be any fluid left in the break.
3. I followed standard Delta Kits wax and hydrophobic coating test procedures by applying a chip saver over the break, then spraying the glass with water. The water beaded up and ran off quickly indicating that a coating was present.
4. A moisture evaporator was applied for 20 seconds to make sure there was not fluid inside the break. Note: The intense heat from the moisture evaporator will also help break down hydrophobic coatings and waxes.
5. 0000 Steel wool was used to clean the surface of the glass around the impact point of the bullseye. Although not always necessary, using 0000 steel wool is an extra precaution that ensures all the hydrophobic coating or wax is removed and the pit resin will adhere to the glass properly.
6. The pit area was probed to remove any loose glass and clean the pit area that the 0000 steel wool may not have reached.
7. A Delta Kits B300 bridge was applied and MagniBond resin was injected into the break.
8. A 30 second vacuum cycle was applied in accordance with Delta Kits instructions. “No resin was observed leaving the break”.
9. Pressure and vacuum cycles were repeated until all visible air was removed and the break was completely filled with resin. In this instance a total of 3 pressure and 2 vacuum cycles were used.
10. The bridge was removed, a drop of Premium Pit Resin was applied, a curing tab was placed over the top of the resin, and the repair was cured for 5 minutes with a 12V UV lamp.
11. The lamp and curing tab were removed, the excess resin scraped from the glass surface, and the pit area polished with a drop of Premium Pit Polish.

Question: If Rain-X is improperly applied to an open break in a windshield so that the break is filled with Rain-X, and then the break is allowed to age for one week, would the resin that is injected into the break be pulled back out during the vacuum cycle because the Rain-X is so slippery nothing sticks to it?

Answer: Note if you use Delta Kits resin, Delta Kits equipment, and Delta Kits methods for repairing damage treated with Rain-X. The following video proves this fact.

[the big welshman]

Hi there, I have been reading all your postings???? Why dont you go down to CVS or Wallgreens and buy some NAIL POLISHER REMOVER it works very wll????????????????????????

[AWCR4CARS]

The Rain X treated windshield video was great! The moisture evaporator is one of our most important tools when doing repairs. I'm sure I have repaired chips with Rain X without even realizing it was on the windshield. Thanks for the info. pertaining to windshield water repellants.