Dryout Alternatives?

[GLASSTIME]

Hello Fellow Techs!

Id like to know what Dryout Alternative methods you guys may use besides a Moisture Evaporator or Drystar. Excluding vehicles defroster or hair dryer.

Seems I am having a unusual higher rate of crack out's. This is my first winter and I am trying to develop a process of elimination when it comes to WSR and Colder climates.

Any suggestions or comments are appreciated!

[Frank EU]

Chad, don't worry too much, we all have or had our crack outs. It is never funny when it occurs, but it can happen. It is not too complicated, avoid sudden temp shocks and overheating, you may, in order to prevent a crack out, also want to try to enlarge the area you are warming up. If your troubled seek contact with DK, they will help -sometimes things go quicker, easier and better on the phone.

In the past there were other ''ways'' that claimed to do the job, and we have used most of these in the past, but since the introduction of the 12V Dryer we stick to that tool simply because it is, by far, the best method. You really shouldn't try the other ways, the Dryer is the way to go. Give DK a call for help.

[sunshine wr]

I've been using one of these for several years now with good results. http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/p-6322- ... mj300.aspx this tool and GW dry-vac techniques have worked well FOR ME. IMO drystar heat is to harse (I also experienced crack-outs with a drystar) I think the butane is a softer heat and more controlable

[just chippen away]

I use the same tool as sunshine uses to warm an area I am working. Just work it in circular motions from the impact and work it out around a 8 or 9 inch circle and back in till you are comfortable with the temp.

It also works well for re warming the glass as you are still working the injector.

I do have the dry out tool. but only use it to dry out a bull or combo after it was wet.

[t4k]

I've been using one of these for several years now with good results. http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/p-6322- ... mj300.aspx this tool and GW dry-vac techniques have worked well FOR ME. IMO drystar heat is to harse (I also experienced crack-outs with a drystar) I think the butane is a softer heat and more controlable

Are you using this tool on the inside or the outside of the glass, or both?

[DrPeckRepair]

Hello, When Im going on a mobile call in this bad cold or damp weather I always ask if the customer minds running their car with the heat on high blowing only out the floor vents or dash vents if there turned downward. By doing this the car is slowly building a lot of heat before i get there and the glass is considerably warmer and less damp when i get there and easier to repair without crack out problems later. NO heat from the defrost of course or that would be asking for it! Although this works very good i still have found that a good hair dryer used with this method once i get there to maintain the glass staying warm and dry during the repair makes a big difference also and I would have to recommend doing both. Some one in a post before mine said heat in circles of 8-9 inch or better out from the break works and thats the same method i use when using the hair dryer. I can see where using one of the torches may also be the same effect as using the hair dryer buy i imagine you have to pay close attention to keep moving and not get anything to hot. This is definitely a good topic for this forum at this time of the year. DPR

[just chippen away]

I only use it on the out side. It can be used on the inside like a bic lighter also. I don't feel the need to put a lot of heat the inside and to warm the outside and take a chance to mess with the lamination.

[sunshine wr]

Just the outside.

[Brent Deines]

There is a big difference between warming the glass and drying out a break. Although a lot of windshield repair technicians use torches I prefer not to use an open flame. It works well, but it is much harder to control the temperature of the glass. Not impossible, just harder.

Before drying out a break it is important to warm the glass. I find it very interesting that so many technicians are afraid of the defrosters but instead use lighters, torches, hair dryers and heat guns. I find the defrosters to be very useful in keeping the entire windshield reasonably warm and safer than any other heating method. I do however like to warm the outside with a hair dryer with the defrosters running whenever possible...before drying out a break. Unless you have an hour or two to kill warming from the inside with any method just is not going to cut it, and neither is using a hair dryer. You do need some relatively intense heat to remove the moisture rapidly.

Regardless of your preferred dryout tools, I would only use a moisture evaporator, torch, or heat gun from the outside.

[sunshine wr]

I'm not afraid of the defrosters. I use this for drying not warming. If the glass is cool or cold that's a plus, then the break area will cool down to a workable temp quicker. I've never really used heat to help resin flow. AGAIN THIS IS Just my opinion.
DON'T TRY THIS AT HOME!!