drill bits

[glassdoctor]

Disclaimer: The bit can still skip out if you don't have a good hold on it or get lazy...

Even when "scuffing" a spot to drill, be careful... keep a firm hold on the drill and don't sneeze or slip off a step ladder

[TTGLASSMAN]

Thanks for all the insight. I too start out with the dremel on 5k so it won't "dance" across the windhsield. I then sometimes turn the speed up and remove periodically so it does not get too hot. I have seen the tips turn red due to the heat build up.

Do you always drill every break or just the start break or combos?

Sometime I dont and the star breaks don't fill as well. I don't like the way the drill "dot" remains visiable sometimes when the rest of the repair turned out great.

Thanks again!

Dave

[desertstars]

Pulsate the drill operation while you're using it by drawing the bit in and out once the hole is started.

One, one thousand and so on.

In essence from hot bit to cooling bit.

A basic carbide drill procedure that is pretty much common knowledge.

For those who use diamond bits, the procedure requires building a dam for lubrication.

[Repair1]

I personally use a FORD Dremel driven by Kurt Busch \:D/ going about 10,000 RPM with a bit of an angle before I get to the straight away, never going to far too hit the lamination. Remember the layer of glass your drilling into is at the thickest only 1/8 inch unless it

[mafsu]

with a driver like that it's sure to skip across the glass and bang into something. lol.

[Chips_Away_Windshield_Repair]

Awhile back I started making a very small "X" where I wanted to drill into smooth glass with the scratch awl, gently scratching out just a little deeper hole several times before the drilling begins using a slight straight in tap-tap-tap approach to pop bulls eyes or like Delta recommends at an angle rotating dremel in existing tight star. I really like the .024 burr from Delta but don't have the part # handy. Works well for me. I don't keep track of number of holes drilled but usually loose them before wearing out. I always remove and reverse burr after use to prevent any kind of accedental damage to paint, also remove to inserrt the Dremal soft polishing wheel...however thanks to posts today probably go to the Revlon sticks.

Also Wal-mart in their craft depts. have a 3" hand twist drill (stainless steel, about $4.00, like a jewlers screwdriver) that accepts small burrs. I use this a lot to clean out holes.

Can someone tell me how to get a picture on the signitures? Keep it simple please! Some days rubbing the big tummy an scratching the head is a chore.

Also, does any one have ideas on some kind of lightweight uv materal for putting over the top of a 10'x10' tent I'm intending making with 1-1/4" pvc
for our weekend spot, well weighted of course. Planning on attching to the awning of the M/H one side.

[gold star wsr]

It certainly is possible to have too fast a speed on your drill. I use the GT VP-5000 repair system. There are 2 plug-in recepticles side by side. One is labeled "charger/lamp", and the other is labeled "drill". The power output in each port is different. I plugged the drill into the charger/lamp space once and when I started touched the glass (I mean barely touched it), the drill bit turned bright red, it was so hot! YIKES!!

[CPR]

You can buy tarps in just about any size from Harbor Freight, Northern Tools, Tractor Supply Ect. The silver ones seem to block all visible light.

[desertstars]

Repair1.

You did it to me again.

Troublemaker.

My simple post turned into a Nascar discussion.

The next thing I know someone will send an autographed picture of Jeff Gordon in an email attachment.

There are so many prvious posts regarding "drilling" and how to drill that it cannot bear recounting...

Neverthelesssssss.

There are two BASIC techniques regarding drilling and they differ accordingly.

Drilling a virgin point and drilling a previous "ding".

The latter is simple.

Use your lowest rpm and then pulsate your highest rpm and stop before the laminate or before depending on the damage but NEVER drill into the laminate.

I'm not even going to suggest in this post the best way to perform drilling the virgin point except to say that you had better be using a sharp bit when doing so unless you wish to risk traveling.

There is very LITTLE danger drilling into an existing damaged area.

There is a hell of a lot of risk drilling a virgin point.

RPM is more than sufficient with the two-speed Dreml drill we are familiar with in both cases.

It's simply a case of using it properly.