Pete Conv W/S Replacement

[Lee]

From the factory these come with a butyl rubber seal. The butyl is there to keep out water not to hold in the glass the encapulation does that. The easiest way to do these is to rope them in. But to get to that point you have to warm the glass/encapulation. This is what we do, set glass on cradle, install thin rope cross at bottom, install butyl on outside edge of enc, warm the glass. Use a woods vacuume cup mounted to the inside center of glass. Spray enc with release agent.Start one lower corner, Hook the oppisite corner to center glass then hook the other corners. Hold glass in with cup and rope the rest. HTH

[GlassGuy805]

Done the rope, hook and cup procedure. They can still be a buger. Guess it must be the nature of the beast. Thanks for the info. Have a good one.

[Wally]

Now I know I don't want to volunteer for one.

[StarQuest]

Finally had the chance to check one of these out while picking up some glass at my supplier today. Nice piece of glass! Now I understand what you guys been talking about. I can see why you might want to preheat shield around rigid encapulation before hook and roping to help soften up rubber. Thanks for your tips Lee, Glassgod and Glassguy805. It will definately help cut some valuable time off that first install when I run into one of these.

Anybody want to share which big truck shields they hate doing the most? One Freightliner that personally comes to my mind? (Century Class C120, Dw1302-1303) Especially if they been previously been installed before the wrong way;)

[I_Hate_Butyl_Tape]

Just another few points on this subject...

Many of these trucks have stainless steel visor brackets that interfere with installation... I have overcome this problem by roping them in top first.

You will most likely need an experienced person on the outside when you do this.

Also, this method occasionally makes the encapsulation bind against the roof panel which is riveted just over the winshield opening. If this happens, lightly push out on the top center of the glass while lifting up on it.

I recommend using actual peterbilt windshields instead of aftermarket ones because the encapsulation is usually much softer... and the peterbilt butyl seal is easier to work with too.

Yes I said butyl tape. This is one of the extremely few occasions where I will use it, because the manufacturer requires it. If it is not used, you will be looking at an extremely ugly leak repair. And it will leak.

[I_Hate_Butyl_Tape]

Interesting topic, starquest...

Have you ever done a freightliner argosy? Kind of like a century except it's a cabover. Nothing but a ladder to stand on. And that bottom outside moulding comes off easy, but you almost break your fingers trying to put it back on.

That is my second-least favorite windshield.

A-class motorhomes that are glued in are without a doubt my least favorite.

[streekyd]

1987-2005 PETERBILT
FIELD SERVICE BULLETIN
NAGS

[StarQuest]

Straight from the textbook.....Great info streekyd!

Thanks for sharing that with us;)

[Clyde]

One more trick I got from an old timer at Peterbuilt in Fargo was he prefered a 14 gauge INSULATED wire instead of rope ,it slides easier. He also uses silicone spray wet type, yes normally it's a no no but does not effect the butle. Ive done a bunch of these and you may want to use a long nose vise grip to pull the large ears on the corners in. Also wide masking tape inside and out before removal keeps you from getting glass all over the place when you push them out! GOOD LUCK, they aren't too bad after you do a few!

[terryalex29]

I have one to do in the morning and have done several in the past. Thanks to all the tips I think tomorrows will be the easiest one yet. Keep up the good work.