My uv light crashed on me ( ok I dropped it ), and found some good info on black lights and uv lamps. Looks like you can use a flourescent blacklight for a curing lamp in a pinch. I was lucky enough to find one at Pets Mart for 14.99, odly enough it looks exactly like tho ones sold for 40.00 and more by WSR companys. I will put the cut and paste below.
Blacklight Fluorescent Lamps
(From: Don Klipstein (don@misty.com).)
BL in the tube designation (e.g., F40T12BL) means "blacklight", which is a fluorescent lamp with a phosphor that emits the longest largely invisible UV wavelengths that are both efficiently and fairly cheaply possible. This phosphor seems to emit a band of UV mainly from 350 to 370 nanometers, in the UV-A range.
BLB means "blacklight-blue", which differs from "blacklight" only in that the glass tube of this lamp is darkly tinted with something with a dark violet-blue color to absorb most visible light. Most UV gets through this, along with much of the dimly visible deep-violet 404.7 nanometer line of mercury. Most of the violetish-blue 435.8 nanometer line is absorbed, but enough of this wavelength gets through to largely dominate the color of the visible light from this lamp. Longer visible light wavelengths do not significantly penetrate the BLB's very deep violet-blue glass, which is known as 'Wood's glass'. The UV is the same as that of the BL lamp, being mostly between 350 and 370 nanometers.
There is a 350BL blacklight lamp, using a different phosphor that emits a band of slightly shorter UV wavelengths in the UV-A range. The reasoning for this lamp is that it is supposedly optimized for attracting insects. These lamps are one variety of UV lamps used in electric bug killers.
There are other UV fluorescent lamps. There are at least two different UV/deep violet emitting fluorescent lamps used mainly in the graphic arts industry, emitting mainly wavelengths between 360 and 420 nanometers. Possibly one of these is also used in bug killers. I have noticed one kind of UV fluorescent lamp for bug killers with a broadish band phosphor with significant output from the 360 nanometer range (maybe also shorter) into visible wavelengths around 410 to 420 nanometers or so.
There is an even shorter UV-A lamp used for suntanning purposes. I would guess the phosphor emits mainly within the 315 to 345 nanometer range. One brand of such lamps is "Uvalux".
There is even a UV-B emitting fluorescent lamp. Its phosphor emits mostly at UV-B wavelengths (286 to 315 nanometers). It is used mainly for special medicinal purposes. Exposing skin to UV-B causes erythema, which is to some extent a burn reaction of the skin to a slightly destructive irritant. Use of UV-B largely limits this to outer layers of the skin (perhaps mainly the epidermis) and to parts of the body where skin is thinner. UV-A wavelengths just over 315 nanometers can also cause sunburn, but they are more penetrating and can affect the dermis. Please note that the deadliest varieties of skin cancer usually originate in the epidermis and are usually most easily caused by UV-B rays.
There are clear UV-emitting lamps made of a special glass that lets through the main shortwave UV (UV-C) mercury radiation at 253.7 nanometers. These lamps are marketed as germicidal lamps, and ones in standard fluorescent lamp sizes have part numbers that start with G instead of F. These lamps will work in standard fluorescent lamp fixtures.
Cold-cathode germicidal lamps are also in use; these somewhat resemble "neon" tubing.
Be warned that the shortwave UV emitted by germicidal lamps is intended to be dangerous to living cells and is hazardous, especially to the conjunctiva of eyes. Signs of injury by the UV are often delayed, often first becoming apparent several minutes after exposure and peaking out a half hour to several hours afterwards.
Please note that non-fluorescent (high pressure mercury vapor discharge) sunlamps generally emit more UV-B rays rather than the tanning-range UV-A rays. These lamps do have substantial UV-A output, but mainly at a small cluster of wavelengths around 365 nanometers. Tanning is most effectively accomplished by wavelengths in the 315-345 nanometer range. In addition, no UV suntanning is completely safe.
Some useful info on uv lamps
Some useful info on uv lamps
Funny you should mention pets . . .
I never even thought of the fact that I use "full-spectrum" lamps for my Macaw's Aviary, so that he can benefit from the UV he requires, that normally gets filtered by most of today's modern glass.
It would be interesting to see what kind of UV band is emitted by one of these "full-spectrum" bulbs that can be commonly found at nearly any Wal-Mart!
I never even thought of the fact that I use "full-spectrum" lamps for my Macaw's Aviary, so that he can benefit from the UV he requires, that normally gets filtered by most of today's modern glass.
It would be interesting to see what kind of UV band is emitted by one of these "full-spectrum" bulbs that can be commonly found at nearly any Wal-Mart!
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Yeah, there are some "household consumer" lights and bulbs that work fine for curing resin. Most of the "blacklights" I think would work as well as the cheap "WSR" lighs. I have used several and they all worked. You can also take any blacklight replacement bulb and put in a matching size "normal" fourescent light.
As you mentioned, it's very rare to find any specs on UV wavelength, or the "watts" output at a specific range. That's the tricky part even for uv-adhesive curing industrial products. Often there are specs available, but not specific enough.
You notice pretty quick, if you do some searching, that there are industrial application UV lamps to drool over. Way more power than anything we use. But, they can cost thousands of dollars, and just the replacement bulbs for these cost more than any of the lights used in wsr. I did find one recently that I would love to try... it is VERY small... bulbs last "forever" and it's under $1000. It's not neccessary, but would be very cool...
One light that is cheap and works very well is the 18" GE Blacklight "undercabinet" style fixture. About $20 at walmart, etc... I found it cures pretty fast. It big and it's 110V, but it wouldn't hurt to have as back-up to your "professional" equipment. I don't even carry mine with me... I carry more thatn one light already.
I have used "bugzapper" bulbs in the past and they worked just fine. I found some on clearance once at KMart, I think... that were the 6" 4watt type bulbs.
Fishing stores sometimes have these "wsr style" 4watt AA lights, and Home depot has the same in a 110v fixture.
I find it entertaining to learn about this stuff too...
As you mentioned, it's very rare to find any specs on UV wavelength, or the "watts" output at a specific range. That's the tricky part even for uv-adhesive curing industrial products. Often there are specs available, but not specific enough.
You notice pretty quick, if you do some searching, that there are industrial application UV lamps to drool over. Way more power than anything we use. But, they can cost thousands of dollars, and just the replacement bulbs for these cost more than any of the lights used in wsr. I did find one recently that I would love to try... it is VERY small... bulbs last "forever" and it's under $1000. It's not neccessary, but would be very cool...

One light that is cheap and works very well is the 18" GE Blacklight "undercabinet" style fixture. About $20 at walmart, etc... I found it cures pretty fast. It big and it's 110V, but it wouldn't hurt to have as back-up to your "professional" equipment. I don't even carry mine with me... I carry more thatn one light already.
I have used "bugzapper" bulbs in the past and they worked just fine. I found some on clearance once at KMart, I think... that were the 6" 4watt type bulbs.
Fishing stores sometimes have these "wsr style" 4watt AA lights, and Home depot has the same in a 110v fixture.
I find it entertaining to learn about this stuff too...
Re: Some useful info on uv lamps
Thaks for all the great research sharing! thanks also to Delta for hosting this page!
I carry an "Emergency Battery Jumper" unit ($20 from Kmart) that is light and has two 12V outlets. I rigged a 110 converter to one of the oulets. I put this unit on the hood of the car I am working on and have ready power for either 12V or 110... About half-way thru my day I plug the jumper unit into my car's 12V to recharge... I love the system... except I would prefer not to carry anything in addition to my toolbox...
I carry an "Emergency Battery Jumper" unit ($20 from Kmart) that is light and has two 12V outlets. I rigged a 110 converter to one of the oulets. I put this unit on the hood of the car I am working on and have ready power for either 12V or 110... About half-way thru my day I plug the jumper unit into my car's 12V to recharge... I love the system... except I would prefer not to carry anything in addition to my toolbox...
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