Windshield Repair Forum

Brent Deines wrote:You can't be serious!

Some of the alignment tabs are hollow and if you shave them off you will leave a hole in the lens. Removing them is damaging the lens, not restoring it. When someone works on my vehicle I expect them to do what is best for me, not easiest for them, and if they cut the alignment tabs off my headlights they would be buying me new headlights. I believe in treating others as I wish to be treated so I would never intentionally remove an alignment tab, and if I did by accident, I would tell the customer and purchase them a new headlight without being asked.

Are we professionals or just backyard hacks out for a fast buck? Your reputation is everything in this business or any other!

Did you find this out the HARD way . I did !!

Fortunately it was on a practice lens...left a hole about the size of a BB.

Thanks again for the info Brent! Theres no way we'll be sanding them off.

No problem.

That's funny... makes me wonder how many might be like that? Obviously, if removing the nipples creates a hole in the light, ummm.... that's bad.

As I said, I don't cut them off. Another guy in my area apparently does... they guy who told me about it thought it was pretty slick, and that the guy was proud of it. So I'm thinking that it must not be common to end up with a hole in the lens? Again, my "solution" to this type of lens (grand am, dodge truck, etc) is to use a spray coating. Works great and I promise it won't put a hole in the light.

Serious? Yes. Apparently some guys do cut or sand them off. And, assuming it doesn't leave a hole in the lens, then I don't have a problem with them doing it. To each his own. I would say to get approval first of course, if it's a retail job.

Old Blue 66 wrote:
Great info. I had no idea. This is the reason I posted the question.

Good info, yes. Out of curiosity I might be taking a closer look at these cars... see if you can tell which ones are molded with a cavity in the nipple.

glassdoctor wrote: Again, my "solution" to this type of lens (grand am, dodge truck, etc) is to use a spray coating.

If you read the OP's post, his problem was with the sanding and polishing process, not the final coating. Applying the coating by the "wipe on" process is apparently not the issue.

t4k wrote:

glassdoctor wrote: Again, my "solution" to this type of lens (grand am, dodge truck, etc) is to use a spray coating.

If you read the OP's post, his problem was with the sanding and polishing process, not the final coating. Applying the coating by the "wipe on" process is apparently not the issue.

Correct. And time is very much of the essence here. Obviously, it adds time to the HLR job. We are mobile too, so a spray coating here in the cold midwest is not an option.

Let me explain. The difference in using the spray coating is that it pretty much eliminates the problem of ending up with visible sanding marks around the nipples. You don't have to keep sanding multiple steps around the stupid nubs all the way to 2000-3000, which is tough to do without leaving behind something by the end of the process. With the spray, but only sand to 500-800 range because the coating fills in and hides everything at that point. So really, it's almost impossible to end up with visible marks unless you start with 180 grit for some odd reason.

Also, the nubs do make it a little more difficult when applying a wipe on coating, having to work around them.... where the spray application is 100% unaffected. May not be a big deal, but it's a nice bonus.

I don't use the uv cure spray coating much anymore, and have moved to a different process for most of my work.... but I will always have it on hand for certain jobs like this.

Old Blue 66 wrote:
Correct. And time is very much of the essence here. Obviously, it adds time to the HLR job. We are mobile too, so a spray coating here in the cold midwest is not an option.

I'm in the midwest and I'm mobile also. Not sure if you have used any uv cure coatings, but it can be a very fast process... 15 min or less. That's one of the things I like most about it.

And it's not that bad to work with in the winter. Cold weather puts a damper on using any coating. I think the cure time using a uv coating and cure light is similar to 4.1 and a hair dryer. 5-10 minutes, done. Both are great options when you need to pull a car inside to when the weather is bad, or you just need it ready to drive asap.