When doing a long crack I find that in some cases you can still see bits of the glare when the repair is completed. What would cause that to happen other than bits of debris. In most cases the cracks are fresh cracks and some were repaired the very same day...
Would different pressure from the bracket in the inside of the car cause that? Any suggestions would be helpful
Thanks
Geno
Long Crack Repair
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Anonymous
Long Crack Repair
I'm not a genius at it, but here's my two cents. If the crack is in an area where you can flex the windshield from the inside of the vehicle with your hand, then forget the crack expander. You can work through an open side window to do this. When doing this it allows 2 things. #1) You can see how the crack is filling in and watch to see if any spots remain unfilled. #2) It gives you better flex control in different areas of the crack instead of one area at a time, which the crack expander is limited to. It has been my experience to stop drill the end of the crack first and fill from the stopping point back to the beginning of the crack all the meanwhile laying curing strips over the crack as you fill it. This keeps the resin from escaping and being displaced once again by air which causes glare. Anybody else have some hints? I'm all "ears" so to speak.
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Anonymous
crack repair
I was taught the capillary action crack repair method:
1. drill and pop a mini bull's eye out from the end of the crack, and run the crack into the bull's eye.
2. place a piece of electrical tape so it covers the mini-bulls eye and about 1" of the crack. also cover the impact site with electrical tape. so now you have electrical tape at the end of the crack and over the origin of the crack.
3. position the crack expander(s) with appropriate pressure over the crack on the inside
4. cut your repair strips now, and have them handy (I find that 2 to 3 inch strips are easier to work with... to each his own)
5. beginning at the low end of the crack (even 'horizontal' crack have a low end) , slowly apply the resin to the crack and it will be wicked into the crack by capillary action. As you apply resin along the crack, also lay the tape over the portion of the crack that has absorbed resin. This is a 2-hand, 2-eye operation. Continue in this manner until the crack is filled to close to the piece of electrical tape at the end. Stop, and cure the crack.
During the crack filling process, be very careful not to lean on, or apply pressure to the glass. Once the crack is cured, use your injector to finish the mini-bulls eye end, and the original impact site.
Those silvery lines you see in some finished repairs can result from a couple of different things. The filling process should be done as smoothly and seamlessly as possible. Once you begin, keep on going. Keep a careful eye on where the resin has filled the crack in relation to the tape, because you always want to be behind the resin with the tape. This helps to prevent 'skips'. Pressure on the glass during the filling process can force some of the resin out of the crack, then when pressure is released, you have a void there. Dirt in the crack might also be a factor.
If flexing the windshield from the inside works for you, well and good... I have found, however, that you get consistantly better fills by using the expanders to keep the flex constant during the entire repair, instead of flexing and releasing. And this frees up both your hands for other activities.
You would do well to get a scrap windshield and practice all the methods that are offered. Then settle on the one that you are most comfortable with. Just out of curiousity, Geno, didnt the company that sold your equipment give you crack repair training, a crack repair video at least? and do they offer technical support?
1. drill and pop a mini bull's eye out from the end of the crack, and run the crack into the bull's eye.
2. place a piece of electrical tape so it covers the mini-bulls eye and about 1" of the crack. also cover the impact site with electrical tape. so now you have electrical tape at the end of the crack and over the origin of the crack.
3. position the crack expander(s) with appropriate pressure over the crack on the inside
4. cut your repair strips now, and have them handy (I find that 2 to 3 inch strips are easier to work with... to each his own)
5. beginning at the low end of the crack (even 'horizontal' crack have a low end) , slowly apply the resin to the crack and it will be wicked into the crack by capillary action. As you apply resin along the crack, also lay the tape over the portion of the crack that has absorbed resin. This is a 2-hand, 2-eye operation. Continue in this manner until the crack is filled to close to the piece of electrical tape at the end. Stop, and cure the crack.
During the crack filling process, be very careful not to lean on, or apply pressure to the glass. Once the crack is cured, use your injector to finish the mini-bulls eye end, and the original impact site.
Those silvery lines you see in some finished repairs can result from a couple of different things. The filling process should be done as smoothly and seamlessly as possible. Once you begin, keep on going. Keep a careful eye on where the resin has filled the crack in relation to the tape, because you always want to be behind the resin with the tape. This helps to prevent 'skips'. Pressure on the glass during the filling process can force some of the resin out of the crack, then when pressure is released, you have a void there. Dirt in the crack might also be a factor.
If flexing the windshield from the inside works for you, well and good... I have found, however, that you get consistantly better fills by using the expanders to keep the flex constant during the entire repair, instead of flexing and releasing. And this frees up both your hands for other activities.
You would do well to get a scrap windshield and practice all the methods that are offered. Then settle on the one that you are most comfortable with. Just out of curiousity, Geno, didnt the company that sold your equipment give you crack repair training, a crack repair video at least? and do they offer technical support?
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Anonymous
re: long crack repair
I was thinking more of a short crack repair, 6" or less. But I have copied and pasted your advice and am going to give it a try. It sounds like a very technically practical way to do it. And you're right about flexing the windshield on longer cracks. It does have the tendency to push the resin back out. Appreciate the good advice. I almost always stray away from "long" cracks, but if your technique works, and it sounds like it does, I'll definitely incorporate it.
This is a perfect example of what forums are for.
Have a great day and many prosperous W.S.R. returns.
This is a perfect example of what forums are for.
Have a great day and many prosperous W.S.R. returns.
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Anonymous
Long cracks
I also limit most of my crack repairs to 6" maximum. This is the guideline set by most insurance companies. It is also the recommendation found in the recommended practices.
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