Spring Hammer Replacement Tip Question

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Andy
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Spring Hammer Replacement Tip Question

Post by Andy »

Hi,

What is the life of the replacement tip of the spring hammer? How often does it need to be replaced?

Thanks,
Andy
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Re: Spring Hammer Replacement Tip Question

Post by Nomad »

It should be about the same as the regular slide hammer. The end will eventually dull and mushroom so it will not fit into a small drill hole. If you are using larger bits than I am then this may not make much of a difference. If you are having difficulty with spalling because of this, here is what you can do.

Put bit in in your dremel drill. Put it on high speed and hold it against a fine stone of some sort, like a knife sharpening stone. You will have to hold it at the correct angle so that you get the tapered point like in the original. If you have another dremel you can chuck a fine stone into it and hold it against the spinning stone. This will take a light touch as material comes off very quickly. When everything looks good, make sure that you rub the stone across the end at 90 degrees so the end is not sharp. It should have a tiny flat spot on it. If it is sharp it will break the bullseye into a star and that's not so good.

Or order a new one from delta. I think mine lasts a year or so and I use mine all the time. So it's no big deal either way, but once you learn to dress it up yourself it's not a big thing. You might have another one in your kit so that in case something happens you can change it without having to wait for a new one to be sent or messing with grinding it down when you really don't have time.
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Re: Spring Hammer Replacement Tip Question

Post by Mr Bill »

I dont see why you should ever have to replace the tip, if you are just using it on a glass windshield .
The layers of glass are about 0.1 inches thick and if you drill half way into the outer layer, you are hitting 0.05 inches thickness of glass with the point of the tool.
Unless you drop the tool on its point there should be no concern about the point becoming dull.
Anyway, a few strokes on a sharpening stone should fix that.
I like to use a sewing machine needle mounted in a pin vise for ease of handling.
I feel that it makes a smaller bullseye.
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Re: Spring Hammer Replacement Tip Question

Post by Andy »

Thank you for your quick replies. I have been using the round carbide burs, probably that is where the problem is. I read somewhere on this forum to use tapered burs.
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Re: Spring Hammer Replacement Tip Question

Post by Brent Deines »

Yep, if you are using the FG2 you will have problems. It's too small of a hole. The tip of the slide hammer and the spring hammer is optimized for the FG701. Even slightly smaller or slightly larger burs, or burs of a different shape, will provide unsatisfactory results. You also need to rotate the drill slightly as you drill to get the best possible shape. I've never been able to figure out why that works better than using one size larger of a bur but it does. There is some debate regarding whether it's best to rotate in a clockwise or counter clockwise direction (I prefer clockwise), but I don't think that is all that big of a deal.
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Re: Spring Hammer Replacement Tip Question

Post by Andy »

Yes, I have been using the FG2 bur unfortunately! I will order FG701 burs and see how they go. Thanks for your reply!
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Re: Spring Hammer Replacement Tip Question

Post by Brent Deines »

No problem. Feel free to call us if you continue to experience problems. Replacement tips are available but they should last for thousands of repairs.
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Re: Spring Hammer Replacement Tip Question

Post by Andy »

Thank you so much for the clarification! :D
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Re: Spring Hammer Replacement Tip Question

Post by Andy »

Oh, one more question now. Can I use the tapered burs for drilling regular star breaks or do I need to use the round ones?
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Re: Spring Hammer Replacement Tip Question

Post by Brent Deines »

You can use tapered burs for everything but I prefer a smaller bur like the FG2 for drilling star breaks on the rare occasions they need to be drilled. Frankly I can't remember the last time I needed to drill a star break as they almost always have an impact point and even if it is very small that is enough to access the damage and inject the resin if you are using DKI equipment. There are smaller tapered burs and smaller burs with other shapes so it's a matter of personal preference, but a smaller hole will be slightly less noticeable.
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