Problems with pit resin.

First of all I am using Delta Kits resin's. I'm having problems with the pit resin looking kind of a light brown and foggy when I am finished with the repair. I am only hand polishing the finished product. Should I be using a rotary polisher.

</p>

Vpro,

Just to make sure, you are not saying that you are polishing with the pit resin, correct? If you are not, it sounds like you may have contaminated resin.

Give us a call at your earliest convenience to arrange for replacement!

800.548.8332

[b]Jeff Higgins
Delta Kits, Inc.
jhiggins@deltakits.com
www.deltakits.com</p>

Ive used Deltas pit resin, in conjuction with their pit polish, and its works better than any others that I have seen, I just hand polish it, and it shines like glass, I did have a problem before with some repairs with other resins, when there are small tiny air bubble that you cant really see in the surface of the cured resin, almost like a pitted windshield, then you polish, only to see the resin staying in those small pits, it does like what you are talking about. Or maybe you didn't let the resin cure long enough.

</p>

Make sure the pit or drill hole is clean before filling it with pit filler. <img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/ohwell.gif ALT=":\">

After you remove the injector, use a paper towel or rag to poke into the hole and soak up any resin left in it. If you don't, often it can leave a cloudy or dirty looking pit.

</p>

If is a quality resin and hasn't been contaminated it should not discolor. Using a towel or cloth to absorb excess resin could invite the possiblity or FIBERS to be introduced into the fill and also allow for an air pocket to form that otherwise would be taken up buy the injected resin.

</p>

What I refer to has absolutley nothing to do with what resin you use. Depending on the technique being used, the resin left in a drilled pit when the bridge is removed can be full of micro air bubbles. I normally choose to remove my bridge by first sliding the injector to the side, which results in a little squirt of resin. This may be a factor in what I see as "cloudy" resin in the pit.

Use a washed, clean terry towel to remove any resin left in the hole. Then use your choice of pit filler. This is foolproof and results in crystal clear pits... it will not cause a problem unless you use a filthy rag.



</p>

I wouldn't even DREAM of using a dirty filthy rag.But...just try shaking your nice clean terry cloth towel indoors and watch all the dust and LINT fly off of it.All That could end up in the fill.

</p>

I don't recall lint flying off a rag that has been throught the laundry.

Funny how I have been doing top quality work for 12 years now and all this time my pits only appeared to be clear. But now I know they are full of crap from my rags... must be invisible crap. <img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/wink.gif ALT=";)">

Look, of course it's a possibility that something could get from a rag into a pit. But it's also possible for wind to blow dust into it, etc...

How are we supposed to clean and store injectors? Can we not touch them with a clean rag?

I think people use rags also to dry dishes when washed by hand... <img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/eek.gif ALT=":eek">

</p>

Not looking to argue...just pointing out things I have observed...TRY shaking you nice clean cloth and watch what fles off of it.Dry dishes?...well...thats another matter.I RINSE my injector with alcohol and blow dry it and then store it...a cloth never touches it.<img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/smile.gif ALT=":)">

</p>

A thought, no body mentioned. Try new curing tabs, if you are using old, dirty, contaminated tabs. It will greatly affect your finished repair. I use tabs for apprx 2 days or 20 repairs before discarding. I know, I should only use for maybe 5 repairs but....I'm cheap..

</p>