chip repair comes out LOL

I have been considering the windshield repair biz for many years on and off.In November I bought a car I loved and it got chipped right away.My mother had got a call from some one doing chip repair so he called me. I had one of his men do the work.It took only 10 minutes so I wondered how good the job was done.I know it should take about 15-20 at least to be properly done.Well last Friday the resin came out completely.leaving the chip still there.It was cold when the repair was done.Do you think he used the wrong resin for the temp or just didn't clean good enough?I want to learn to do it right so I can take his work and use it to my advantage.The word will spread he does about 30 repairs daily.So there is no way I was the only one done like this.

tooldini

<edit>Removed foul language</edit>

</p>Edited by: <A HREF=http://pub144.ezboard.com/bwindshieldrepairprofessionals.showUserPublicProfi le?gid=deltakits>deltakits</A> at: 4/26/03 7:44:05 pm

wow, he's doing quite alot is'nt he, he's either cheap or good, or the only one in the area doing this. can't tell you exactly why it fell out there are many varibles that could come in to play.

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Snake oil will do that<img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/wink.gif ALT=";)"> . Seriously, though, if the repair was done abd finished correctly, it should have held up. I purchased my initial kit used. It did not include pit filler, nor did I receive instruction on the proper way to finish a pit. My "trainer" (a-hem) showed me how to remove the bridge/injector assembly and use curing tape to corral the resin that runs out, so that the repair resin also is used in place of pit filler. I was a newbie... what did I know? However, when my own windshield developed 'freckles' , and the sun-burnt resin flaked out of the pit, it occured to me that there must be a better way. I found forums similar to this one and also many suppliers willing to share their knowledge and experience, and I quickly learned better methods for finishing the repairs.
You are on the right track, asking for advice from the people in these forums. I wish you success in this business.

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Gold Star can you give me some advice on the proper way to filla pit as I too apparently wasn't trained in the proper way to fill a pit. I use a thin viscosity resin in the pit first without a cure tab( to fill in the bottom of the pit), then a thick pit fill resin on top of it with the cure tab. It looks great for 4-6 weeks then it starts to yellow then shrink, and eventually comes out all together. I have never recieved a complaint about this, but it drives me crazy to see a repair that looked great when I did it, but the pit has come out.

www.ohnonotagain.com</p>

Hey Masfu,

I know you asked for Gold Star but I figure all input would be helpfull. Basically I fill the break with the premium bond listed below, remove injector and put a drop of pit fill listed below right on top with cure tab and cure. There might be other techniques that work equally as well though. This is what has worked consistantly for me. I think the problems you are experiencing might be from the resin you are using. I posted the preformance specs for the DELTA RESINS below for comparison to your supplier. I know this topic has been addressed before, but this is some of the information I think is important in selecting a resin and might shed some light on your problems. I must add, I have not noticed these problems yet with DELTA RESINS.

DELTA KITS Premium Bond is a very low viscosity windshield repair adhesive. Here is the technical data on it.

Viscosity: 14-15 CPS
Refractive Index (Cured Adhesive): 1.47
Adhesive Sheer Strength: 4300 PSI
Strength after 2 Hr. Boiling Water: 1900 PSI (50% Loss)
Tensile Strength: 1300 PSI
Modulus of Elasticity: 434,000 PSI
Elongation: 0.5%
Linear Shrinkage: 2.5%
Shore Hardness: D60-D80

DELTA KITS Pit Fill is medium viscosity repair adhesive. Here is the technical data on it.

Viscosity: 1600-2200 CPS
Refractive Index (Cured Adhesive): 1.51
Film Tensile Strength: 12,000 PSI
Adhesive Tensile on Glass: 3200 PSI
Shore Hardness: D75

Hope this helps somewhat.










Pay it foward,

Brian
www.safeglasstechnologies.com

info@safeglasstechnologies.com</p>

Thanks Brian, I appreciate any help I can get.

www.ohnonotagain.com</p>

Brain is correct. Use repair resin for repair; Use pit filler for filling the pit. For clarification: the "pit" is the surface area that needs to be filled after the injector is removed. Resins labeled 'pit filler' (the good ones, that is) are formulated not to darken or become brittle with exposure to the elements and the sun.

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Thanks Goldstar. The resin I'm currently using to build up the pit is a medium viscocity resin that is for that purpose, it's way too thick to use to repair even a bullseye. It must be the resin.

www.ohnonotagain.com</p>

Sounds like you need to find a new pit resin supplier!

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I think you are right, I am testing some resins side by side to see how they do.

www.ohnonotagain.com</p>