Cloudy Resin

Can any one tell me why after my resin cures it appears "cloudy". I'm using Delta Kits premium resin and the windshield surface temps. are around 70 degrees. The repair would look perfect except for the resin appearing cloudy instead of clear. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance for any help.

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The most common reason for "cloudy" resin after curing is moisture in the damaged area.

If you are drying out the damage before beginning your repair and you're still getting this result in all of your repairs, it's possible that the resin in the bottle has somehow become contaminated with moisture.

Mike Burstein
Dominion Windshield Repair
www.ChipDr.com

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The most common result of cloudy resin is contamination. Moisture and/or chemical or pollution in the wound will result in cloudiness, regardless of the quality of the resin used. If you are cleaning the damaged area prior to starting the repair, it is important to cover the impact site with a windshield saver or a piece of electrical tape (I use the tape for this purpose... costs way less), to prevent introducing the cleaning agent into the damaged area. If you suspect moisture may be present in the wound, use some type of dry-out tool in combination with a dry-out liquid (consult your supplier).

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Chip, great minds think alike... while I was typing, you posted! Yes, if every repair is cloudy, the resin itself may have been contaminated. It is important to be meticulous with the handling of the resin. No foreign substance should come into contact with it. It may be tempting to try to recapture spilled resin into the same container, but don't do it. Maintain your equipment, and on rainy days, be careful that no rain gets into the resin while you have it open.

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Just wanted to say "Thanks" guys for the suggestions and help with my question. The problem is probably being caused by cleaning the window and repair area with an ammonia based cleaner and not using a moisture evaporator. Thanks again for the advice. What is the best thing to use to clean the windshield before repairing? Compressed air?

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I swab the area around the damage with 90% alcohol, being careful not to come into direct contact with the impact site. This not only cleans the field of grime, it also dulls down any coating that might be on the windshield, such as rain-x and/or wax from the car wash. I dampen a small area of a paper towel, clean the area and then proceed. The alcohol evaporates very fast, eliminating the need to wait for the glass to dry.

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I have to agree with what everyone else shared about what causes the cloude appearance after curing. Even though it may take longer to prepare (Drying and any cleaning) a rock chip or crack before actually doing the repair, it has to be done if you want the customer/client to be happy with your finished repair.

It is my opinion that getting the rock chip or crack "completely" dry before you start injecting any resin into the damaged area. It will eventually cloud if you don't.

There are a lot of different favored methods of drying a rock chip and/or crack. There are mini butane torchs of all types, hand held, 12 volt units that work in the same principal as a cigerett lighter, as well as air forced heat units. Some people still use the the old Bic Lighter method from the inside of the windhsield. Everyone will come up with the method that works best for them.

In the cold, damp and rainy weather it is critically impostant to dry out the void of the rock chip or crack that is in need of your quality repair.

Just keep it simple,
Rock Chip Rich
www.chipFix.cjb.net

Rock Chip Rich <>< @ ChipFix, Inc. / www.ChipFix-Supply.comRich@chipfix.com</p>

I agree with the above posted responses to your problem, but think that maybe we are missing an important solution. Are you using a pit polish to polish the surface of your repair, removing the razor blade marks after scraping it flush. So if you are using clean resin and the damage is dry. Make sure you try polishing the repair..

Just a thought.


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