Resins what do you like!

it ocured to me that we all use resins (duh) and I wondered what everyone use and if you like them or loved them the ones you use. right now I use Liquid resins green cap and red cap there good do what their suppose to do but this year I'm going to be buying some new injectors and wanted to here from the end user who use the resins that are out there.

also has anyone used the new injectors that are thread less and how do they perform!

</p>

Sprinter,

You are touching on a very debatable topic but you are asking for someones personal opinion so I will give you mine with factual backing.

I use DELTA KITS PREMIUM BOND RESIN and PREMIUM PIT RESIN. Structurally speaking, I have not had one repair fail on me yet. Optically speaking, I have not had one repair that did not dramatically change in appearance. I am not one to reinvent the wheel, so if its working for me at the level of standard I have then I would not change resins based on opinion or marketing hype.

I would be more concerned though about the black and white technical facts for the resins. If they can't or won't supply you with them then I would steer clear. (No pun intended).<img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/happy.gif ALT=":D">

Here is why I use DELTA KITS RESINS.

January 4, 2002

144-1 Windshield Repair Resin Specifications
144-1 is a very low viscosity general purpose windshield repair adhesive.

•Viscosity: 14-15 CPS
•Refractive Index (Uncured adhesive): 1.4682
•Adhesive Sheer Strength: 4300 PSI
•Strength after 2 Hr. Boiling Water: 1900 PSI (50% Loss)
•Tensile Strength: 1300 PSI
•Modulus of Elasticity: 434,000 PSI
•Elongation: 0.5%
•Linear Shrinkage:&nbsp &nbsp &nbsp &nbsp 2.5%
•Shore Hardness: &nbsp &nbsp &nbsp &nbsp D60-D80

August 11, 1999

144-2 Windshield Repair Resin Specifications
144-2 is a medium viscosity windshield repair adhesive used for pit filling.

•Viscosity: 1600-2200 CPS
•Refractive Index (Uncured adhesive): 1.51
•Film Tensile Strength: 4200 PSI
•Adhesive tensile on Glass: &nbsp &nbsp &nbsp &nbsp 3200 PSI
•Shore Hardness: &nbsp &nbsp &nbsp &nbsp D75

As an aircraft technician by trade I am always first and foremost concerned structurally. Secondly I focus on cosmetics. It is the structural side that provides safety and the cosmetic side that produces customer satisfaction. As a perfectionist I am not happy till I accomplish both.

At the very least I hope all will research there resins technically rather than by marketing hype. Make them prove why they claim to be the best. If they are so confident in there products any reputable supplier would have no problem providing you with such information.

Yes, I am done now...<img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/laugh.gif ALT=":lol">



Pay it foward,

Brian
info@safeglasstechnologies.com
www.safeglasstechnologies.com</p>

Thanks Bfenne, How many drops do you use in a repair. whats your perferd tempature that you like the shield to be. how tight would you say you screw the injector to the glass. thanks.

</p>

Hey Sprinter,

For the majority of repairs I do it is approx. 6 drops. I go by sight though with the clear dropper the Premium Bond comes with. Larger breaks and cracks may require more depending on size which can easily be added if thats the case.

I prefer to have the glass between 70-75 deg. I feel this is a good temp range to keep the glass as stable as possible for manipulation of the break. Keep in mind that a warmer temp. may be necessary depending on the break and progress of repair.

As for the exact pressure I have never measured the pound inches it might be. I get the injector aligned and seated. Then I give the injector 1 full rotation. Then I use my leveling screws for the final adjustments. If I need more pressure due to slight seepage I will adjust accordingly. I do this by feel. If you really need the exact tension I will see if I can bring home a calibrated spring scale from work and see what it takes to pull the injector away from the glass. I would follow your MFG's recommendations for their tooling.

I am sorry I did not have more definitive answers to your questions.









Pay it foward,

Brian
info@safeglasstechnologies.com
www.safeglasstechnologies.com</p>

11 years in the trade i would never use threadless injectors as you cant apply enough pressure on injecting the resin and it will just fall out in about two weeks but thats my opinion.

</p>

Welcome to the forums 11yrsnvq2! <img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/smile.gif ALT=":)">

I've been trying to sit here and figure out what your name means...Any help? <img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/wink.gif ALT=";)">

[b]Jeff Higgins
Delta Kits, Inc.
jhiggins@deltakits.com
www.deltakits.com</p>

bfenne I mean on the white tip thats at the end of the injector is it completly flat aginst the glass and then you screw it another turn to get it tighter.

on the threadless injectors they have a set screw to hold them in place, instead of the injector screwing into the holding device it is put in there, adjusted and screw tightend and then the repair as normal. that is what I was refering to any feed back.

</p>

Sprinter,

That is correct. I screw the injector down until it seats on the glass. At this point there is miniscule pressure. Then I give the injector 1 complete rotation. Next I use the leveling screws for final adjustments.
Note: This is for non vertical glass.

If I understood you correctly, you are questioning the pressure that is exerted on the glass from a fully seated injector. I have never measured the inch pounds of pressure that it might be. Sorry.

As for the non-threaded injectors I do not have any experience with them. The draw back that I see with them is the lack of ability to fine tune your injector during the repair. This does not mean that they are not capable of producing the same results, it is just a different means to get there.





Pay it foward,

Brian
info@safeglasstechnologies.com
www.safeglasstechnologies.com</p>