Star Breaks Plus

[Mikedoby]

Just wondering how the best way to handle the following situation? Today I had a 96 Blazer with a combination bulls eye and star break about 6" above the state inspection sticker. (In NC, theyare located in the lower driver's corner of the WS). At first glance, it appeared to be a normal fix, but after closer examination with my magnification lens, I could see three or four hair line fractures inbetween and about the star points that did not connect to anything :!: The customer was not available at the time I started my repair so I proceeded to repair the star break as I normally would. When the customer returned, I was completing my last injection cycle and getting ready to cure before I removed my bridge. I began to explain to the customer about the additional fractures and that I would not be able to repair them with the original set up. I told him that it would require possibly drilling each of the fractures and filling them simular to the way I had made the original repair. Since this would take substantially more time to repair, I explained to the customer that the break was more severe than he had described to me over the phone, and that it would require additional work and some material to correctly repair the areas. He said that he did not want to spend anymore money on the WS and to fix it as good as I could without the extra repairs required on the additional fractures. OK, how should I have handled this? I do not want to leave work unfinished since the quality of my work is my best referal. Should I have made the other repairs for the same amount ($40.00), and bit the bullet on my extra time and materials, or what? :?:

[GlassStarz]

I think I would have filled the Bull without drilling then cured. then drill to the center point and pressue again I bet they were connected and would have opened up with pressure combined with the old heat and cool method. this is my modified version of something I saw on a Liquid Resins tape

[gold star windshield repair]

When I quote a price for a repair, that is what I charge, even if it turns out to take longer or involves more work than I originally had thought. As for the legs 'not connecting', this is possible, but probably not likely. Applying some pressure on each of the legs with your probe while on the vacuum cycle should open those channels and allow resin to flow. Another techinque that would work in this instance is to drill part way into the impact site, then hold your probe at an angle toward those legs, gently tap to ensure the legs do connect. You need to be very careful with this, because you dont want to break away any of the surface glass in the process.

[scratchy]

If I quote a price I fix it for that price unless it is clear the customer was deceptive in describing the extent of damage.