Pop a bulls eye in a small batwing?

[CrackFixKY]

A little confused, when your "drill and pop", what are you drilling? On the ends of the "wings" ro in the center where the initial impact was at?

Thanks,

Travis

[StarQuest]

CrackFixKY,

From what I've read so far seems like you have a good handle on the business end for getting started in repair. What you really need now is some professional technical training!

Forget all the drill and pop information you've read on these post....your not ready to pop anything until you have all the basics under your belt.

Batwings don't need to be popped to repair! Just drill at 45 degree angle starting at pit, towards (black area of wing) and things should fill fine.

Personally, never popped a batwing to fill!

[SGT]

I love batwings. I wish all chips could be these. These ALMOST disappear. We never drill unless it wont fill! Patients is the name of the game here as with all chips. Get set up and give it 5-10 min under pressure and they should really clear up nicely. Then do your cycles. This is just what works for us. As with all repairs make sure the glass is warmed or cooled sufficiently, becarefull not to have excessive stem pressure and try not to force the resin flow. In the end go with what you know.

[Starburst Mobile WR]

Hey guys and gals, great answers that why I'm glad I found this site, Always learning something new. Keep them coming

[ChipRite]

Hi,
On the linux forums there is amethod of writing an "Howto" to summarise a procedure with various steps for ease use by others. I have tried this from the information on this thread posted by the members. Will anyone find this usefull or not?
Any comments will be appreciated:

Small batwing repairs

There are a couple of ways to repair these:
1)Do not drill at all, just put the injector on the nick, use light stem pressure and inject, vacuum, inject. This takes a few minutes longer, but gives the best finish.
2)Drill straight in the nick without popping a bulls eye and fill as in point 1
3)Drill in from the nick slightly at an angle towards the black part and do as in point 1, slightly quicker.
4)Drill in the nick and pop a mini bullseye and then follow as in point 1

Some things to note:
Drilling should be preferably limited where possible and only done from the nick or glass scar to eliminate further cosmetic blemishers after the repair. If drilling the thinnest drill should be used for batwings.
If the windscreen is hot 120 F (50 C), cool down to 70-80 F (20 – 26 C), using shade, alcohol spray etc, BEFORE touching the screen, as the wings may spread very easily when hot and you apply any pressure.
When cooled down use your moisture evaporator to get rid of any moisture – Even if it was in the sun you may still have a tiny bit in deep! Beware of using a moisture evaporator or mini torch on a very hot windscreen, or not waiting for the spot to cool down before the next heating cycle, delamination can occur and you will see the daisy effect after the repair. The same before applying the injector as the pressure of the injector stem on a hot windscreen could cause the crack to run.

Use the lowest stem pressure (injector to screen) that you can get away with and even after it has filled nicely, make sure you have used at least two vacuum cycles and a final longer pressure cycle before removing the injector to cure. Do not depend on a single pressure cycle, even if the fill looks ok in your mirror..
Be carefull with your probe on the legs when windscreen is hot, it can cause cracks to lengthen.
Use a thin crack filler resin and a drop of pit resin forced into the drill hole with your probe before tabbing and curing and watch for air bubbles. Pit resin has more strength than thin resin and is the best to face the weather side.
Keep your dark towel over the bridge for the duration to eliminate premature curing or thickening of the resin. Do not forget that on overcast days there are still UV rays reflected at you as well. Remember those suntans on the beach while it was an overcast day!
After curing and scraping, buff the pit spot and the customer will find it hard to locate the spot!
Regards
ChipRite

[toab]

I like starquests idea of the 45deg' drill only idea as you are not dealing with multiple fractures as in a star break so to me the less risk the better.I'm in the popper club too but I will try starquests way on bats.

[GP2]

Never had to pop a batwing, or even drill. They always turn out invisible if I take the time. Probably my favorite damage to repair, other than those huge nasty stars that go invisible right infront of the customer as soon as the plunger drops