LARGE PITS

[BRUCE]

HOW DO YOU REPAIR A COMBINATION BREAK THAT HAS A LARGE PIT ?

I RECENTLY HAD ONE THAT I COULD NOT REPAIR BECAUSE I COULD NOT MAINTAIN A SEAL.

[StarQuest]

Hey Bruce,

You can fix these but make sure you tell the customer before hand that the cosmetics aren't going to be too impressive. If it's in the drivers line of site....pass on it. If not, simply apply pit fill, cure to close the pit which will allow seal or "O" ring to cover. Then go back, re-drill deep and fill as normal. You'll be left with a big nasty pit to polish but it will look ten times better than it was prior to repair.

[lakosbo]

dont know which system you use, but (as recommended by delta) fill with pit resin first, cure, drill to the laminate then begin repair as normal. the larger the pit the less appealing the cosmetics.

[GlassStarz]

I drill then l put the awl in the hole prior to sticking it in the hole I spear a cure tab stick awl in hole put pit filler in massive pit slide cure tab down awl. Let the sun cook it off romove awl and tab put the drill in the hole again and just give it a short burst apply injector fill break and swear you will walk away from the next one of these big cluster %$^&'S you find.

[StarQuest]

Hey GlassStarz,

Funny that you mentioned this method cause I've tried that before. Actually I've tried a few others but wouldn't suggest them to everybody. Ok, maybe one! I once used superglue to attach a larger "O" ring to the bottom of my seal to cover the pit. At first it worked out great but during the second pressure cycle it blew apart and sprayed resin everywhere. I still managed to fill 85% of the damage but truthfully it just wasn't worth the additional effort and mess. Total repair time including clean up ended up to be 45 minutes. These days I'd normally just say sorry.....no can do!!! Sometimes being brave and trying to conquer the unexplored areas of repair is just plan stupid.:roll:

[Mikedoby]

Like most of the othe guys, I will make sure that the pit is open to the break by slightly drilling. After cleaning out the new drilled area, I will place a drill bit back into the hole and slide a piece of curing film coated with pit filler resin down over the bit and onto the break. I will then remove the bit through the hold that I have made in the curing film and place my injector over the curing film hole just like I would anyother break. This works pretty well for me.

[screenman]

I use a large pit adapter that fits on the end of my injector.

Or I just pit fill and drill no problem either way most of these sort of jobs are on buses or lorries where the glass is thicker and the need to save money for the operators is far greater than the need for cosmetics.

Remember what you may not want to take on someone else might and then where does the customer go next time.

Always make sure you sell thgis type of job correctly.