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#11
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I mark off the end of the crack with the drill, just a bit though. I then go back and fill the crack by wicking. I then harden it up. I make the end bulls eye and fill it along with the remaining inch that didn't fill because it was too tight. With this technique I almost never have a crack keep trying to move while popping the bulls eye... very safe and they look great too.
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#12
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The company I trained with did not instruct how to pop mini bulls. How far into the glass do you drill. What is the best tool to use for poping the bull.
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#13
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burnman, see post number 2 down below for instructions on hole depth and so on. Good luck!
__________________
Dependable Dave Dave's Windshield Repair Cedar Park TX NGA Certified Tech Master Trainer "Opportunity is missed by most people because it is dressed in overalls and looks like work." -Thomas Edison |
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#14
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Thanks Dave. I'll do some practice before moving further. What type of drill bit do you use for cracks?
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#15
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First of all u push on the inside of the windshield to make sure the crack is at a stopping point.....then you drill a hole bout a 1/16 of in. past the end of the crack. i drill slowly and then just use my drill to make the mini bullseye....then push on the inside again and run it into the mini bullseye...it should make a clicking sound.....then a drill another mini bullseye next to the other one. just in case in goes through the first one......works great for me...i may have one fail maybe once every 8 to 10 months. but i just repair it where it spreads from the last bullseye.
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#16
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I purchased my business and was trained by a 23-yr repair veteran. I watched him do long crack repairs in which the crack seemed to disappear and they seemed to last forever. His technique was to run a 5-inch bead of med-resin over the crack, then put a piece of curing film over it, then another bead.... He would then use a Bic lighter to heat the windshield from the inside and would use his knuckle to put pressure on the crack from the inside. When the glass cooled and the glass retracted (from its heated expansion) the resin flowed into the crack... aided by his knuckle pressure.
He would remove air bubbles by putting an injector (sans the bridge) over the bubbles and would twist-suction the injector. After doing this a few times... all the air bubbles were out and the window looked great. I have read about and practiced sliding the bridge and injector along the crack.... but have had about as much success as with my trainer's method. I am sure a 10-year veteran of either method can do a great job.. and yes, I know that that resin is better than this resin...etc... but why do newbies like me (3,000 chips) have trouble filling cracks? More tips from you old timers?
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"They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety."-- Benjamin Franklin Last edited by Shepard : 01-01-2008 at 07:43 AM. Reason: Spelling |
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#17
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quoted by Shepard:
"His technique was to run a 5-inch bead of med-resin over the crack, then put a piece of curing film over it, then another bead.... " When you say " Then another bead" do you mean on the next five inches after the first 5 inches have been filled? |
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