Appling Heat Inside

[GlassStarz]

As Sneck explained the cooling leg pulls the resin in I heat during vac cycle remove the heat then imeadiatly go to pressure the heat opens the leg the cool pulls in the resin on a rare occassion I will spray a little alcohol on the inside to do a rapid cool you can see the resin instantly appear in the stubborn leg this is a technique I saw in a video and use it rarely but it does work everytime

[tooldini]

I will have to consider this when I get a stubborn long leg. How do you know if you have the glass warm enough. Is 4-5 seconds long enough? I never dealt with heat but if may help me I am willing to try it.

Jeff

[Bois]

Layne,
I do the same type of heat & cool process that you describe. It works for me, too. Maybe it's a TX thing.

Dale...

[toab]

I'm a heat user myself and find that it is a nice trick to use sometimes however you do have to wait a while to ensure that the glass is evenly cooled off before finshing up.

[Layne]

Bois--

I guess we need to pass that along to Billy.

[GlassStarz]

Use a paper match run it back and forth under the break stop before you roast your finger

[StarQuest]

I'm sure a few of you may have a problem with what I'm about to tell you but seriously consider what I have to say.

Using paper matches (open flame) inside a customers vehicle? How unprofessional does that look when customer is standing over your shoulder, when you pull out a pack of matches and light one in their vehicle?

Using matches to heat a repair is so old school (like very old school!) I thought that procedure was only used by the many unexperienced glass shops attemping to provide repairs. As a experienced technichian you can provide something better than that....i would hope.

What happens one of these days when a match starts burning your finger tip and you drop it possibly burning the custom interior of an $40-$80,000 car your working on? What would you say than? Oops....I'm really sorry about that!

Your general liabilty repair insurance policy won't cover any damage to vehicle, it will be out of your pocket! Are you willing to take that chance?

I don't have a problem with some of you using heat inside to complete a repair but for god sakes purchase a heat pen, dry star or something else to perform your heating needs when working from inside a vehicle!

I'm still not quit sure why everybody finds the need to heat something from inside of vehicle. I personally heat everything when needed from outside and have never experienced a problem completing a repair. Your not repairing inside layer of glass, your repairing outside layer!

I know some might not agree....so I won't be surprised by any responses!

Oh bye the way, Go Tigers!!!!

[Sneck]

Starqwest, what tool do you use for heating from the outside? I use heat very seldom, but on the occasion when I do use heat, I use a standard cigarette lighter.

[StarQuest]

Sneck,

Weller-Portasol Self Igniting Butane Soldering Iron/Heat Tool #psi100k

Has a heat tip that provides only hot air (no direct flame) provides 400-600 degrees and will never burn lami. (well I suppose it could if you held in in one area for to long) Heat pen is small enough to apply heat around injector stem without melting seal. This is one of my favorite and most commonly used tools to evaporate moisture in damage and to help thin out resins for better flow in cold weather conditions.

[Sneck]

StarQwest,

Would you say that when you use the Weller-Portasol Self Igniting Butane Soldering Iron/Heat Tool #psi100k for drying out a chip, does the heat evaporate the moisture, or does the heat temporarily swell the damage shut forcing moisture out of the break (or both)?

I have always been a bit nervous about applying heat for fear of spreading damage. That is why I have always got by with a standard cigarette lighter on the inside glass. This usually helped for resin flow of course, but not specifically for moisture removal. I admit, I need to catch up on my dry-out tools and technique.