Appling Heat Inside

[screenman]

I use heat for dry out and for some other types of damage remember not only is every break different but so are the conditions we work in. If you think about it hard you will reason that by applying heat from inside the vehicle you are far more likely to spread the damage than applying from the outside. When warming the inner layer we are expanding the glass and sometimes this will push the outer layer creating a stressed area. I have a major account which once invited a firm in to demonstrate a repair system they were thinking of buying to keep repairs in house, anyway this guy used a match which he dropped on the dash. I got to do the dash repair which he paid for and I got to keep the account. No matches you need something farmore proffesional and controllable. If you have a practise glass you can experiment with the inside and outside method, you will be suprised how hot you can make the outside without any damage occuring except when the PVB melts.

[Layne]

Good point screenman. I don't smoke (anymore) so I don't carry matches. I have found the cylindrical lighters to be an excellent tool for heat applications. By applying heat judiciously for about 5 seconds (working the flame back and forth) you avoid hot spots. Repaeating this cycle 4 or 5 times is sufficient to accomplish the task. It is great for achieving clarity. The comments of a veteran are appreciated.

[screenman]

I agree about moving the flame to avoid hot spots. I do not personaly heat a very large area when using a flame, because the larger the area you warm the longer it takes to cool. This is where the drystar is a good tool the alloy ring around the heater element helps keep the heat contained.

[StarQuest]

Sneck,

Yes, it does both but please remember if your working with cold weather repairs like I do in Michigan this time of year, the first heating cycle will not evaporate all the moisture! First heating cycle will evaporate some moisture and swell legs shut but during cooling period condensation will also be pulled back into opening legs!

When temps drop below 45 degrees I commonly apply 2-3 heating cycles prior to ever setting up injector and inducing any resin. You always want your damage to be totally dry of any moisture.

The reason I like this heat pen is because I've never experienced a crack out from applying to much heat to rapidly. I also use a dry-star (which is nothing more than a remote cigarette lighter with button and cord) but find it difficult at times to access the area directly around injector, that's when the heat pen comes into play!