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  #1  
Old 09-23-2007
screenman screenman is offline
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Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: uk Lincolnshire
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Default pit polishing.

We find many people have problems with polishing a pit. Here is my method, first scrape as usual with a sharpish blade. Then use the smallest amount of pit polish you can get out of the bottle about the size of a pin head will do, put this on the end of your finger and polish hard a few seconds will do until the polish is dry this is the moment it shines. Forget clothes and dremmils and big dollops of polish try it, it amazes everyone even guys that have been in the trade years. I am still on my original bottle of 100 ml Novus plastic polish that I got 20 years or so ago.

Less in pit polishing terms is better. Remember polish until it is dry.
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  #2  
Old 09-23-2007
jayjacque jayjacque is offline
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Join Date: Aug 2007
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Default Re: pit polishing.

Good advice, less is more. Here's another related tip. Not every time, but in many cases you can avoid needing to polish, if after placing the pit resin and curing tab over the repair, you then give just a slight push straight down on the pit causing it to be ever so slightly below the surface of the windshield. When you scrape, the pit will maintain its gloss because it is below the scraping level.
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  #3  
Old 09-24-2007
screenman screenman is offline
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Default Re: pit polishing.

Jayjaque, I have found on testing that if we leave the pit low it will effect the wipers, they will wear on this point in a very short time and leave a line of water when wiping.
Obviously this is not much of a problem if you live and work in an area with no rain. Many thanks for your input.
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  #4  
Old 09-24-2007
SGT SGT is offline
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Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 644
Default Re: pit polishing.

I use both a Dremel with polish pad at low speed(becareful to use very light pressure as you will burn up the resin) and my favorite I use most is Q-tips with just a little polish with a rapid movement. Works great for me.

I have heard of and tried different techniques(they are in past forum posts) that are to leave you with a pit area that does not require scraping and polishing. I have tried some but have not been able to get a result I am happy with. I always end up with a low or high pit but never have had a completely flush and smooth pit from these alternate methods. That is not to say they do not work though but I have not been able get the knack of it. Maybe that is were my skill plateaus.
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  #5  
Old 09-24-2007
Glasseye Glasseye is offline
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: England, Staffordshire
Posts: 139
Default Re: pit polishing.

If you check out the Glass Medic website, the end of the RAS123 repair video gives some good advice about finishing/polishing a repair
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  #6  
Old 09-24-2007
toab toab is offline
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Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: watford,ontario,canada.
Posts: 348
Default Re: pit polishing.

Thanks Screenman..Will try the finger polish trick.Heck I may never have to buy polish again.
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  #7  
Old 09-24-2007
tooldini tooldini is offline
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Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Lasalle MI
Posts: 456
Default Re: pit polishing.

I will be trying that in the morning. That has been a problem of mine for several months since I ran out of my razor blades that kicked butt, can't seem to find any good ones. thanks

Jeff
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  #8  
Old 09-24-2007
screenman screenman is offline
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Default Re: pit polishing.

Glasseye I am having trouble finding the relevant link on the website, could you help please.
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  #9  
Old 09-25-2007
Glasseye Glasseye is offline
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Default Re: pit polishing.

Screeenman if you click on the "see Ras in action" tab and then click on the flashing red wording on the far right of the screen this will take you to the video. It is divided into sections, the last one being the "finishing" section.
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  #10  
Old 09-26-2007
k9mkt k9mkt is offline
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Malaysia
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Default Re: pit polishing.

Quote:
Originally Posted by screenman View Post
Less in pit polishing terms is better. Remember polish until it is dry.
Screenman ... tried this today .. perfect! ... Thanks!
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