Drystar

[splitpit]

Want an award or something? I'm not going to lose any sleep over not living up to your standards!

[harrellbenjamin]

Well Splitpit.........its time to "try on the shoe" hmmmmmm seems like a good fit too.....

[GlassStarz]

One has to wonder where the negativity comes from?
This was a place for people to share ideas and knowledge but has become the place where one negative fool with his attack and intimidating bs has run off many regulars,made it so anyone who happens by looking for info on WR has to wonder what he is getting into and what the heck is wrong with the folks here. Until Brent gets a hand on the Village Idiot im gone ad me to the list of regulars who no longer participates

[harrellbenjamin]

Not going anywhere here...........................more fun to watch the "Train wreck"lol

[Glassdoc]

I've held my typing fingers for awhile. I know alot of you don't agree with my views either.. Does'nt bother me a bit. I run a successful business and have for 16 years. If it was not successful I would not be in business. And like many of you I have my own way of doing things after trying many techniques through the years.

What gets my dander up, is for someone to state "unless the village idiot is banned" I won't be back.. Since when is a person banned for stating their opinion on a public forum? This statement makes any newbie reading stop, before asking a question for fear of becoming "the next village idiot". Negativity, yes.. There will always be negative posts concerning any aspect in life.. A 70 degree day may be perfect to you, but it may be to bright for some one else..

You guys n gals were waiting eagerly in line for the "free sample of "edited by moderator upon request of resin manufacturer", then bashed the thread because you did not get the specs.. What about all the posts where you tried it and it flowed great and looked good? Now, you bash the maker of Dry Star because he posted that he does 5 minute repairs.. I'm sure he was speaking literally not physically and I'm sure you peeps know it as well. But you take it from the context instead of relating to the post.

I attended the GW school for certification,after 6 years in this business. I was instructed by Mike Boyle and I listened intently. After all was said and done, I still do not take 30-45 minutes on any stone shot unless its just a bear.. I had a long conversation with Mike who tested several of my repairs to see if they were filled and if they would hold and passed both tests. Mike was impressed at my skill and speed (after all I am in it for the money just like most of you and can't survive on 4 repairs a day). Although I understand that GW or any other company wants the trainees to spend a much time as needed and not rush to do the best job they can. But I also understand in an 8 hour day, 45 minutes per repair plus driving time equals the same money a McDonalds employee makes. And I understand the more repairs you do, the better you get at it, so speed comes with the process of repetition.

Folks we all know that there is always going to be differences in our life styles, opinions, sales techniques, an how we do repairs.. But as long as it works, why bash some one for it? I don't bill the networks, you bashed me stating I am missing out on easy money.. How am I missing out? I get paid for each job, cash. Referrals, nope don't get them via fax anymore. Don't miss them either.. One less headache (In my opinion). I suggest that all of you remember its a public forum, not your personal little corner to state your opinion and make any one who does not agree the next village idiot.

[InventorOfDryStarPatent]

Here is another way I have used the drystar.

On halfmoon bullseyes where the cone does not reach the pit, I put the drystar on it for up to 20 seconds and watch the cone travel (pop) right on up to the pit.

[InventorOfDryStarPatent]

Originally Posted by jayjacque

Mine takes 10 or more seconds to get up to full heat.

My question for Barry. I've been using the Drystar tool for only 3 months, so still a novice. What has happened about 3 different times now is that somewhere between 10 to 15 seconds of holding the drystar over the impact point one of the legs of the break starts to crack out. It will crack out about 3/4 of an inch, then I immediately lift up and stop drying out before it gets worse. In every case when I filled, that extra long leg filled ok, so it all worked out. But of course it scared me, and didn't seem to be normal.

I should also say that each time the temp was somewhere between 32 to 38 degrees fahrenheit, 2 out of the 3 times I warmed up first with the defroster, and in all 3 times I slowly circled the impact area for about 10 seconds starting about 3 or 4 inches out and moving toward the middle before I ended up stationary on the impact point for the 10 to 15 seconds. (If I understand right, that is what some of the Techs from this message board say they do) Am I doing something wrong, or does this just happen sometimes?

It sounds like your doing it right. I try to remember that a break that spreads with a drystar is going to spread with a torch. The drystar is more gentle, so the likelyhood of speading is reduced.

[InventorOfDryStarPatent]

Originally Posted by StarQuest

Barry,

To be honest, I do own a drystar and have used it many times but find my heat pen to be much more accomadating to my specific needs. Unlike the bulky drystar I can more effectively direct heat around the stem when using my pen. I also can control the amount of heat that I'm working with. I use both but there our times when I find one to be more effective than the other.

Another question I have....is why has this product not been keeping up with technology. I'd think by now, this product would include a thermo couple switch that could be incorporated that would elimate the use of the push button! When temps drop below 20 degress F here it's not much fun sitting outside in minus temps holding that thing! Why not put some suckers on that and and have it cycle dry out cycles automatically? Just a thought!

Years ago, the first generation drystar had a thermo couple switch, due to advancements in technology, the thermo switch was removed.

[screenman]

Now I am a one for asking questions, in what way is the drystar more gentle and as you know I use both methods for drying out. Are we assuming that in a case of the torch the tech goes straight in with the hot spot. As a torch held some distance away will give off a nice gently heat which maybe even more controllable. The reason I ask these questions is due to the fact my trainees will ask me at some time and I need answers.

[InventorOfDryStarPatent]

Originally Posted by StarQuest

Screenman,

I too use the same method as David M described during the winter months to avoid shocking the glass. During spring, summer and fall months, I'll just apply heat at impact point as you suggested. Gets really cold here during the winter(minus 5-20 Celsius) Maybe Barry can tell us what he does with drystar when working on shields this cold? Remember these are vehicles that you may not have in shop access to or no way to bring interior temps up by running heat or defrost. Many times, it's a stone cold, iced over 4"-6"snow covered shield.

WOW! I have to take my hat off to you for your dedication!
When it was that cold and had snow and ice, I stayed home and ordered pizza's for the dealers sales and service departments.
Reminding them that if they needed me I was just a phone call away.
Sure enough, I got calls from them.
The service writers would call me to fix there customers glass via there ins. companys.
The sales people had me fix all there personal cars and there family and friends and there friends and there familys and so on and so on.