Methods Of Repairing Crack

[Repair1]

Originally Posted by GlassStarz

Personaly I pass on cracks over 3" not sure fixxin the big ones is doing the customer a favor and definatly dont think it helps our buisness as a whole. From what I can see big cracks tend to fail and a failure gives the customer the impression that all repairs fail. happy customers may tell a couple people, unhappy ones tell evreyone!

One more thing GlassStarz, are you serious nothing over three inches?? I don’t even consider it a Crack Repair unless it’s over three inches.

Do you have a Glass Shop?

Happy Repairing

Brian

[GlasWeldTech]

Brian,
I would love to try out Delta's bridge, and if Jeff will pm me I will give him my mailing address to send me one to try out and evaluate. :lol: I think he has all my mailing info come to think of it.
The regular break tripod of Glas Weld has 3 suction cups, however their crack bridge only has 2 so that you can slide it along the crack. The crack bridge looks nothing like the regular tripod.
Glad to help you and others with the slide trick- that is why we are all here.
Eddie

[desertstars]

Excellent crack technique, GlassWeldTech! Exactly the technique we use.

As you already know but for the benefit of some others, do NOT slide the injector past the filled area. If the resin stops flowing, you are either running out of resin; encountering contaminated blockage (use the inside thumb press); or need to increase the injector pressure.

After applying the bead of resin over the FILLED crack, float but do not press down on the the curing strips because we are looking for a ridge that will tie the crack edges together at the surface.

After curing, scrape at a 45 degree angle with a sharp blade.

One suggesstion. Try using baby oil (NOT machine oil) for the slide lube. It's a lot less messy than hand cream and cleans up easier.

I usually start a crack repair from the end and work toward the original hit. Especially on vertical cracks. I've seen the opposite suggested but like to take advantage of gravity when I can.

[DaveC]

Hmm....

Delta has 2 different kinds of suction cups;

The "pump it up"
and the standard


I might have missed it in your posting, but does this "slide" technique work with the newer "pump" models?

[Delta Kits]

I might have missed it in your posting, but does this "slide" technique work with the newer "pump" models?

You cannot slide the pump model suction cups or the flip lever (B200 or B300).

Actually, we recommend not sliding at all, simply because as you slide the bridge, you are flexing that break, which can pull air in after you have filled it with resin. That being said, if that's your method, you can do it with the EZK-2 and EZK-2M.

[sunshine wr]

Jeff , so what is the Delta reccomended technique for a crack repair?

[desertstars]

In answer to your question considering "feathering", Mr. Crack.

At first glance, the end of a crack is not always the end of a crack.

It can feather off further than where it appears to teminate at the open end.

Use a magnifying glass, GENTLY press along the side of the apparent end, and see if it extends further. If so, mark that spot with a scribe and drill at that point.

I then rap a bullseye and proceed with the repair.

There seems to be some controversy concerning the bullseye.

Use your own discretion in that regard.

[sunshine wr]

thanks for the responce on this post it got real intresting .

[desertstars]

I can't comment on the pump bridge that Delta sells because I've never had the opportunity to use same.

However, the lever or flip type suction cup can be slid along the break using a few careful steps.

If the resin stops flowing into the crack and assuming sufficient resin was initially supplied into the cylinder assembly, I first turn in the injector stem to make sure I still have resin pressure. I then check for contamination using the inside thumb flex. (That is usually not necessary if one has employed a crack expander.)

At that point, I apply a track of baby oil alongside the crack and centered on the mid point of the suction cup and also run it around the top circumference or arc of the suction cup.

I then release the flip lever while applying minimum hand pressure on the suction cup and slowly slide the entire bridge assembly WITHOUT breaking the tip to w/s connection while observing resin flow. If it flows, I GENTLY reengage the flip lever and proceed.

It takes practice but it will work.

I remember one time leaving one insurance job and going to another ten miles away. Talk about a clenched jaw when I realized I left my bridge at the last job. I assembled a tip, cylinder and stem; filled it with resin; set up the UV shield; and proceeded to fill the bullseye by holding that injector by hand without bridge against the windshield.

I figured I'd just leave it covered, drive twenty miles and reset if that didn't work.

It worked. Might even have tried it on a star.

There's more ways than one to skin a cat.

[screenman]

I have done lots of repairs even up to 24 inches long that have held.
But you must not let to many of your customers know you can do that or they will get in the the habit of letting the damage grow before they call you. Dont forget you want them to call you as soon as it happens. if you are doing to many crack repairs for the same fleet customer you are not calling on them enough.