Pete Conv W/S Replacement

[Lee]

From the factory these come with a butyl rubber seal. The butyl is there to keep out water not to hold in the glass the encapulation does that. The easiest way to do these is to rope them in. But to get to that point you have to warm the glass/encapulation. This is what we do, set glass on cradle, install thin rope cross at bottom, install butyl on outside edge of enc, warm the glass. Use a woods vacuume cup mounted to the inside center of glass. Spray enc with release agent.Start one lower corner, Hook the oppisite corner to center glass then hook the other corners. Hold glass in with cup and rope the rest. HTH

[GlassGuy805]

Done the rope, hook and cup procedure. They can still be a buger. Guess it must be the nature of the beast. Thanks for the info. Have a good one.

[Wally]

Now I know I don't want to volunteer for one.

[StarQuest]

Finally had the chance to check one of these out while picking up some glass at my supplier today. Nice piece of glass! Now I understand what you guys been talking about. I can see why you might want to preheat shield around rigid encapulation before hook and roping to help soften up rubber. Thanks for your tips Lee, Glassgod and Glassguy805. It will definately help cut some valuable time off that first install when I run into one of these.

Anybody want to share which big truck shields they hate doing the most? One Freightliner that personally comes to my mind? (Century Class C120, Dw1302-1303) Especially if they been previously been installed before the wrong way

[I_Hate_Butyl_Tape]

Just another few points on this subject...

Many of these trucks have stainless steel visor brackets that interfere with installation... I have overcome this problem by roping them in top first.

You will most likely need an experienced person on the outside when you do this.

Also, this method occasionally makes the encapsulation bind against the roof panel which is riveted just over the winshield opening. If this happens, lightly push out on the top center of the glass while lifting up on it.

I recommend using actual peterbilt windshields instead of aftermarket ones because the encapsulation is usually much softer... and the peterbilt butyl seal is easier to work with too.

Yes I said butyl tape. This is one of the extremely few occasions where I will use it, because the manufacturer requires it. If it is not used, you will be looking at an extremely ugly leak repair. And it will leak.

[I_Hate_Butyl_Tape]

Interesting topic, starquest...

Have you ever done a freightliner argosy? Kind of like a century except it's a cabover. Nothing but a ladder to stand on. And that bottom outside moulding comes off easy, but you almost break your fingers trying to put it back on.

That is my second-least favorite windshield.

A-class motorhomes that are glued in are without a doubt my least favorite.

[streekyd]

1987-2005 PETERBILT
FIELD SERVICE BULLETIN
NAGS®: DW01036 / DW01037


File Group: 20 Section: Cab & Doors

Model 379-Family Windshield Installation

This bulletin is applicable to all Model 379-family vehicles.
There are occasions when a replacement windshield may not attain a watertight seal during installation. This may be due to a residue left in the windshield recess channel. The residue prevents the butyl sealing tape, from properly bonding to the channel's surface, which could result in a water leak when the windshield is installed. The channel must be thoroughly cleaned to ensure a watertight seal.

A change to the windshield replacement procedure for the above vehicles has been developed. The change involves cleaning the channel with mineral spirits then treating the channel with a pinchweld primer with corrosion inhibitors to treat scratches and rust.

Installing A Model 379-family Windshield
Follow the procedure below to install a conventional windshield.
1. Ensure that the pinchweld is clean and free from any residue left from the previous windshield installation.
2. Moisten a clean cloth with mineral spirits.
3. Wipe the entire windshield recess channel vigorously with the cloth.
4. Repeat Steps 2 and 3 as necessary, starting with a clean cloth each time to ensure that the residue is not redistributed within the channel.
5. Wipe the entire windshield recess channel a final time with a clean, dry cloth.
6. Apply a pinchweld primer with corrosion inhibitors to treat scratches and rust to the entire channel, using a dauber, according to the manufacturer's instructions. .
NOTE: Do not remove the paper backing from the butyl tape.
7. Apply 1/4 in. (6.4 mm) butyl tape can also use 6X6mm Hollow Core Butyl Tape in the recess channel of the windshield encapsulation
8. Using a nylon pull rope 3/16 in. (4.7 mm) in diameter and 12 feet (3.7 m) long. Tie loops on each end of rope for handholds.
9. Lubricate the pull rope with a 50/50 premix solution of windshield washer/wiper fluid and water. Wipe clean any excess solution prior to use.
10. lnsert the pull rope in and around the windshield encapsulation, on the top and both sides only, where the windshield mask flange is designed to go.
11. Brush or spray on a 50/50 premix solution of windshield washer/wiper fluid and water
inside the top flaps of the windshield encapsulation; ie., the areas behind which the
pull rope is inserted. This will allow the flaps to pull in across the mask with less drag.
Two persons are required for windshield installation:
· One person inside the cab to pull the windshield in by pulling the rope (the rope puller).
· One person to place the windshield in the mask and assist in the installation by apply
ing pressure in certain areas as the rope is pulled (the windshield handler). The right
hand windshield is normally installed first, but this is a matter of preference.

12. Remove the paper backing from the butyl tape.

CAUTION: Exercise care when setting the bottom inboard corner. The flap is susceptible to tearing if it is caught in a bind with the flange.
13. Set the bottom inboard corner of the windshield into the mask opening, next to the center post. Ensure that the encapsulation flap is on the inside of the cab over the bottom mask flange. As the bottom of the windshield is set into place, position the pull rope ends to be pulled from inside the cab

NOTE: At this point, the windshield handler must ensure that the windshield is pushed down into the mask (windshield frame) as tightly as possible.



14. Windshield handler:
- Push the windshield towards the inside of the cab, exerting a nominal amount of force.
Rope puller:
- - Pull the rope up the inboard side for the entire length of the center post, stopping short of the radius. .
- Pull the rope up the outboard side for 1/3 to 1/2 of the length of the outboard edge. _.

NOTE: The rope puller must ensure that the encapsulation flap is over the mask flange where the rope has been pulled. If there is an area of the encapsulation that is not over the flange, the windshield handler should assist by applying a more inward force by intermittently striking the windshield with the palm of the hand. Then the inside flap should be driven in position by striking the glass with the palm of the hand.

15. Windshield handler: Apply inward pressure to the windshield until the rope is completely pulled through. This pressure can be applied by pushing and/or striking (a glancing blow) with the hand. Work in unison with the rope puller.
· Rope puller: Starting at the center post, pull the rope through the radius, along the top, and through the outboard radius, stopping just outside the radius to complete the pull.
· If the two installers work together, the windshield should "pop in" as the above step is completed.
16. Repeat the above steps to install the other windshield. Remember: Setting the windshield center to outboard is the key to properly positioning the windshield in the opening.

[StarQuest]

Straight from the textbook.....Great info streekyd!

Thanks for sharing that with us

[Clyde]

One more trick I got from an old timer at Peterbuilt in Fargo was he prefered a 14 gauge INSULATED wire instead of rope ,it slides easier. He also uses silicone spray wet type, yes normally it's a no no but does not effect the butle. Ive done a bunch of these and you may want to use a long nose vise grip to pull the large ears on the corners in. Also wide masking tape inside and out before removal keeps you from getting glass all over the place when you push them out! GOOD LUCK, they aren't too bad after you do a few!

[terryalex29]

I have one to do in the morning and have done several in the past. Thanks to all the tips I think tomorrows will be the easiest one yet. Keep up the good work.