What about when half of the lens is in great shape?

[candyman]

Good morning Brent. I was referring to the brown polish that came with my original WSR kit. I may have mis quoted calling it a wax. I seldom use it since I started using the 3000 polishing pad and the 4.1 Infiniti. Pommy is using a compound of some sort with a drill. What is the polish I have made with? Sometimes it will give a set of old lenses a better finish. It appears to be very glossy. I will use prep-spray afterward and a green pad to clean the lens prior to applying Coat2protect or Infiniti. As I said in my post. I seldom need to do this and I follow the recommended sanding guidelines. I get great results with both products. I do use the polish to polish rear lights and side markers. Its great with the orbital at removing dried paint marks from the lenses or body of vehicle that have been side swiped by another vehicle.

[Brent Deines]

Hi Candyman,

No worries, that was the distinction I was trying to make. The polishing compound we used to include in our headlight restoration systems contained a very mild abrasive to help polish out minute sanding marks. I just wanted to make it clear it was not a wax so that we didn't have customers thinking they should just grab a wax or polymer polish off the shelf and use it prior to applying a Delta Kits coating. The polish we sold does not leave a film on the lens but it does create a very smooth surface that is not optimal for applying coatings.

I knew what you meant but little discrepancies like that on the forum end up sending a barrage of tech support calls my way. After spending enough time on the forum people forget where they got their info and call us complaining about our recommendations when they are not, and have not, been following our recommendations. Experimenting is fine, in fact I encourage it, but I hate being blamed for advice that did not come from Delta Kits.

Although I'm not a big fan of using a drill to polish headlights because I think they are very difficult to control, I certainly can't deny that a rotary buffer (similar to a drill but designed specifically for the task) can work very well to remove hook marks, etc. and is also great for sanding off hard coatings, so for those of you who are experienced with such tools and understand the associated risks I certainly wouldn't tell you not to. Ideally having separate rotary sanders and buffers along with a random orbital tool would be a good idea for all professional headlight restoration technicians but we have found that most want to only use one tool. A good random orbital seems to us to be the best if you can have only one tool. It's very easy to control so there is less chance of damaging the lens, trim or paint. Just my 2 cents but of course the tool(s) a technician chooses is personal opinion. We have at least a dozen different sanding and polishing tools from Milwaukee, Makita, Porter Cable, DeWalt, Metabo and of course Griots to choose from in our shop, but the weapon of choice for all of my technicians and sales reps remains the Griots so it's also the tool we recommend to new technicians.

By the way, Delta Kits does not, and have not ever, recommend using a green pad to scuff the lens prior to applying Infinity or C2P. A green scotch bright pad is approximately equivalent to 600 grit sand paper.

[pommy]

...Delta Kits does not, and have not ever, recommend using a green pad to scuff the lens prior to applying Infinity or C2P. A green scotch bright pad is approximately equivalent to 600 grit sand paper.

That's the Dvelup system - but a WHITE pad, definitely not green

Awesome on pots n pans though...

Cheers,

Pommy

[candyman]

I have a white pad also. After more than 300 vehicles I havent had a problem with the green pad and I use it wet, on a wet lens, when Iam cleaning it off. The green pad was something I picked up from another detailer that uses a buffer to do HLs. Again I dont use it on every lens. You might say its part of the tricks -of- the- trade. I agree with Brent about having an arsenal of tools to get the job done. I have a impala to do for a lady and its pretty bad. Iam looking for a drill with handle to see how fast that will take the coating off. Iam also considering a small buffer. I've watched a local detailer use both in his business. He doesnt use UV afterward either. He shines them up and uses Tur--- wax and commpound only. Most of the lenes look hazzy when he finishes. The customers were satisfied that the yellow or white cloud was gone. Seldom do I ever see a WOW or crystal clear lens. If the lenses were not bad and just had a lite defect the results were good. For you new HLR guys looking at this. let me stress that Deltas recommendation for use of their products and orbital sanders works the majority of the times. Its those abnormal car lenses that we encounter that create a problem or require a few hours and lots of sanding dics. I've seen guys use a drill or buffer and damage a lens, bumper or light area. The drill will walk away in a heart beat if you are not very carefull. I always tell my customers if they want new, then buy new. However, I can bring the shine back to almost like new condition in the majority of the cases for a fraction of replacement cost. I also tell them if they are not satisfied they owe me nothing. I've had one lens that I could not get the yellow or brown completely out for a dealer. The other lens was newer or used. The lens was clear but still had that stain embeded. Thanks Brent and Pommy for your info. Around my neck of the woods if something produces a shine we automaticly call it a wax. Polish is a city term. We wax our car, you polish yours. Brent, I use that polish in my ceramic shower to reduce mold build up. I polish the tile and it looks like new. It creates a surface that makes it hard for mold spores to grow. great product.

[Brent Deines]

Hey Candyman, have you considered an actual rotary polisher for removing those super hard coatings? For some reason I was thinking you already had one but I like the Makita variable speed electronic polisher better than anything other rotary tool I've tried. More expensive than a drill for sure but also easier to control and built like a tank. http://www.deltakits.com/products/30/674/

If you find one like this anywhere else for less we'll match the price. After testing dozens of rotary polishers we were convinced this was the one everyone would want, but as it turns out the price scares most away so we'll continue to recommend it to those who prefer rotary polishers but once we sell our remaining inventory we won't be stocking them any more.

Just a thought.

[candyman]

I purchased a 5 inch small rotary polisher , but I took it back prior to using it. I did try my regular drill and the thing walked all over the lens. Thats when I discovered I needed a hammer drill with a handle. After watching the guys in the detail shop use a rotary polisher I may consider that for the Impala I've got to do. I may borrow one just to see if it saves me time and worth the investment. I need something bigger to do my shower instead of the 3 in orbital.

[Brent Deines]

The Makita includes a 7" pad for larger surfaces. I have used it on my walk-in shower as well as on my boat. 3" pads are available for use on headlights. I have a couple of 1/2" drills with handles as well, one of which is a hammer drill. They work but are much harder to control for some reason and although variable speed, don't offer the same range.

[pommy]

I'll give that Makita tool a 110% guarantee that it will EAT the hard coatings for breakfast!

I bought one from Delta, also at an unbeatable price.

If it was 240v, I would be using it today

Best quality tool you will find. Lovely to hold. Awww I want one again

Cheers,

Pommy

[Brent Deines]

Yeah, the whole power transformer thing was a deal killer for our overseas customers. Makita just wouldn't sell use 220V tools. Still feel bad about that!

[pommy]

It's all good Brent - you have done more than enough to support my business mate

Raerly do I need to use the polish. I sand with 320, 500, 800, 1200, 1500 and I use the 3000 pad.

Hi Candy,

Hope you are surviving the heat!

Here are some pics - I just thought I'd put some up to show why I ALWAYS use a compound.

It wasn't the best lens to show it - the whole lens has had cr@p polished out of it with a 3000 pad and after just 20 secs with a compound, the left is much clearer.





Again, although it wasn't the best lens to demonstrate with - if you are going to seal something it - it should be the best you can get.



Trust me - After the Infinity went on - the gloss was returned like a brand new headlight!