Resin won\'t flow...

Post your windshield repair tips, questions, advice! Note there is a sub-forum specifically for business development questions.
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Post by DaveC » August 10th, 2004, 4:35 am

I bet Delta would make a fortune if they could dream up some sort of dye/color additive that could be mixed with the resin so that flow would be more visible. Then, of course, upon exposure to UV, the dye becomes invisible;)

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Post by sallyu » August 10th, 2004, 9:48 am

I already have been looking at the legs and as I flex I can see the black area ( air) moving, disappearing and reappearing. That however does not indicate any resin filling.

Before I even start the process I flex to see if there is any "movement", and if I see any, I then know that the legs are probably open enough for the resin to flow.

I don't however know if the legs are COMPLETELY FILLED with resin to the end. Is it possible to have air still present, yet have resin filled to the end?

Some chips look great and are hard to detect when finished, (obviously those are completely filled) and others there is evidence of the original chip or crack still showing and I have not always been succesful at removing ALL of the air, which I know is normal depending on the condition of the chip, dirt, etc, but..... I am still seeking to find a tangible way to know when it is filled.

I guess my point is that I am looking, but I guess I don't know what I am looking for exactly :oops:

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Post by StarQuest » August 10th, 2004, 12:23 pm

Mafsu is absolutely correct! In order to see if legs are filling, sometimes you need to look at them from different and much smaller angles. Many times when your looking straight down, what your experiencing is light reflection through the resin. (have to remember it's still in liquid form and gives the same appearance of looking into a swimming pool, like a shadow) Once in a while you'll run into leg or crack that actually twist. These are the trickiest to identitfy when their being filled cause they will reflect light at all different angles.

One other thing to mention. (Safety Tip) :wink: When you have your face that close to the glass and repair, "NEVER EVER" try to reposition your bridge while it's under pressure!!! Even with safety glasses, a blowout at that angle and distance will cause severe pain :shock:

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Post by mafsu » August 10th, 2004, 5:44 pm

What you are looking for is resin flowing into the legs. The leg will start to disappear from the point closest to the injector on outward. Disappear may be too strong a word, but you will know what I mean when you see it. The actual disappearing will take place while curing. In answer to your earlier question there should be no air at the end of the leg if it is filled. If there is still air you are not done with the injector yet. Run a couple more pressure and vacuum cycles; if that doesn't do it try flexing the legs.

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Coister 500 congrates

Post by Hooky » August 10th, 2004, 6:18 pm

Sometimes legs of the star break actually come to the surface of the glass. Put a drop of resin on the leg and then flex the leg a little bit, very carefully and see if it will work its way in. Sometimes I get those legs to fill this way, be sure the windshield is not hot... Also under the same condition I've noticed that my injectors may keep sucking air during the vacum cycle due to the leg reaching the surface of the star break's leg. When I see that I know I can drop some resin on the outside of glass on the leg and then work it in. Be patient and do not let the resin cure before your ready. Good Luck

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