repair problem
The Safety of Windshield Repair
I did a repair for one of my dealers about 3 weeks ago and it looked great but as I was walking the lot today I noticed that the top 1/4 of the repair seemed to grey out into kind of a half moon, the dealer said don't worry about it and I just gave him a free repair. the repair originally was a bullseye about the size of a quarter with a really large pit. Does anyone have any idea what happened or how to avoid having this happen again.
welll.. ill put in my low experience worth... since i do replacements 90 percent to the time.... first off i wouldnt try such a large damaged spot to repair(my low experience again).. but it sounds like its a air pocket at the top of the break...maybe after you do the next large one , try to drill a small releif hole at the top of the break and do another repair at that location and that may release any trapped air.... if this sounds rediculous to you experienced guys please let me know.. this sounds like a workable idea to me.... hope it helps... keith.. The CarGlass Co.
- speedmaverick
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This should help...
Usually when this happens its the resin. I had the same problem with a bad resin. It was the Glass resins.com brand. Only use TOP quality resin!!!!
A few things that may have caused the problem, Gaf.
A) insufficient amount of resin in injector.
B) Injector tip did not completely cover damaged area with consequent loss of pressure as well as possible resin leakage.
C) inadequate vacuum cycle or cycles.
D) Too much pressure if you are working on a hot windshield.
In the Phoenix area, I apply very little pressure when working a bullseye and gradually increase the pressure as needed to completely fill the damaged area. I then complete the cure under pressure by removing the UV cover.
Solution. Drill into unfilled area and perform regular A to Z repair.
Hope this helps.
A) insufficient amount of resin in injector.
B) Injector tip did not completely cover damaged area with consequent loss of pressure as well as possible resin leakage.
C) inadequate vacuum cycle or cycles.
D) Too much pressure if you are working on a hot windshield.
In the Phoenix area, I apply very little pressure when working a bullseye and gradually increase the pressure as needed to completely fill the damaged area. I then complete the cure under pressure by removing the UV cover.
Solution. Drill into unfilled area and perform regular A to Z repair.
Hope this helps.
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You may have had moisture in the break. If all the water is not removed or evaporated the repair may look fine when you are finished but soon will start to reappear.
Before you start your repair on a bullseye apply gentle pressure with a probe directly on top of the break. If you see any movement of the dark area or get a rainbow effect, chances are that water may be present.
This may or may not be the problem as all the above post could be the solution also!
Good luck.
Before you start your repair on a bullseye apply gentle pressure with a probe directly on top of the break. If you see any movement of the dark area or get a rainbow effect, chances are that water may be present.
This may or may not be the problem as all the above post could be the solution also!
Good luck.
Good point, Dave.
We hardly worry about water in breaks here in Phoenix except after a too infrequent rain.
Too bad we don't know the weather conditions preceding the time of the repair.
W/s repair is a hell of a lot more interesting than replacement and takes more brains than popping one out and popping another one in.
That is not meant to denigrate the replacement technician.
But, I find it infinitely more rewarding to approach w/s damage; analyze how I intend to repair it with the best aesthetic result; and then watch the reaction of the customer as they point out some other area that isn't where the repair occurred.
Of course, I have always prepared them for the worse beforehand by cautioning them that the best we can hope for is that it will look 50 or 60% better and that the main intent is to save destroying the seal.
In almost 16 years, I've only had two horse's asses who complained about the results both of which were tough repairs better left either unrepaired or replaced.
I won't repeat what I told them to do as I tore up the invoices in front of them and tossed the remnants on the ground. It's geographically and physically related to the southern hemisphere.
I've been in this business for over 15 years.
Each and every one of you who either post or lurk to learn in this forum so graciously hosted by Delta deserve a pat on the back for your dedication to our profession.
We hardly worry about water in breaks here in Phoenix except after a too infrequent rain.
Too bad we don't know the weather conditions preceding the time of the repair.
W/s repair is a hell of a lot more interesting than replacement and takes more brains than popping one out and popping another one in.
That is not meant to denigrate the replacement technician.
But, I find it infinitely more rewarding to approach w/s damage; analyze how I intend to repair it with the best aesthetic result; and then watch the reaction of the customer as they point out some other area that isn't where the repair occurred.
Of course, I have always prepared them for the worse beforehand by cautioning them that the best we can hope for is that it will look 50 or 60% better and that the main intent is to save destroying the seal.
In almost 16 years, I've only had two horse's asses who complained about the results both of which were tough repairs better left either unrepaired or replaced.
I won't repeat what I told them to do as I tore up the invoices in front of them and tossed the remnants on the ground. It's geographically and physically related to the southern hemisphere.
I've been in this business for over 15 years.
Each and every one of you who either post or lurk to learn in this forum so graciously hosted by Delta deserve a pat on the back for your dedication to our profession.
An opportunity....
It was probably a water problem or some contaimination. Even on fairly fresh breaks comtaimination can cause a break to open up.
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Repair problems
Even when it hasnt rained in weeks, moisture may still enter through other means: car wash and lawn sprinklers come immediately to mind.
Thanks for all of the great replies I have no idea what the problem was but the impact area was really deep and had a pretty big circumference to it and the windshield was pretty hot.
Since some of you think it could have been moisture what do most of you use for evaporation? right now I am using a "dryout solution". thanks again this is an invaluable tool in advancing my skills and my business. Thanks Delta.
Since some of you think it could have been moisture what do most of you use for evaporation? right now I am using a "dryout solution". thanks again this is an invaluable tool in advancing my skills and my business. Thanks Delta.
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thanks
My system has a nozzle attachment for the hose that is intended for blowing out the hole after drilling. I often use dry-out solution, then blow it out with the nozzle, blotting the moisture with a paper towel. Then I finish up with the dry-star evaporator. Remember, though, when you use dry out solution, you are adding a chemical into the damaged area,and this may affect the appearance of the finished repair, especially bullseyes.
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