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Posted: August 24th, 2003, 9:51 pm
by omega
I need to know if I am doing this correctly. I have been practicing for the last 2 weeks and I think I'm doing a decent job, but I'm just not sure. Please tell me what you think..

First "url" is before repair, second is after. ... 500&page=1 ... 500&page=1

Posted: August 25th, 2003, 1:02 am
by gaf
all of the black that you can see in the after is trapped air and I can't tell for sure but it looks like there is still some reflection still left in the break. You probably aren't leaving the repair under pressure long enough, be a little more patient and if you can, try doing another cycle or two and see how it comes out I think you're pretty close to getting this. good luck and let me know if this helps at all

Posted: August 25th, 2003, 1:29 pm
by drfixachip
Looks like you are on the right track.

I agree with what gaf said... Give it a little more time... Another pressure/vac cycle or two...

While on vac you can gently apply pressure to the injector and cause a gentle flex that may
help evacuate more air... Works on pressure too BTW...

Later :)

Posted: August 25th, 2003, 3:18 pm
by gold star wsr
Try extending your vacuum times, especially the first one, and apply gentle pressure to the glass during vacuum, to move the air around and help it to move in the right direction to be evacuated. Keep up the good work.

Posted: August 26th, 2003, 6:38 am
by omega
Thanks for all the great input. It lets me know what I should be looking for in a good repair. One more question though, when you repair a star break, should the cracks still be slightly visible, or should they turn invisible?

Posted: August 26th, 2003, 7:43 am
by gaf
You will see some scaring along each leg of the star, but there should be no reflection or black spaces. FYI the pressure techniques mentioned above will definately work on a star, another thing to make sure of when working on a star is to make sure that all of the legs connect to the center of the break or they will not fill


Posted: August 26th, 2003, 12:46 pm
by omega
If they don't connect, what do you do? Do you press on the break in order to connect them?

Posted: August 27th, 2003, 1:05 am
by Jeremiahswindshieldrepair
I have had good luck with using a lighter on the back of the glass while the repair is in the pressure stage and heating up the windshield to loosen the resin and heat up the air that is trapped inside the chip. Don't light it for too long ... only about 10 seconds with a regular lighter or if you use a torch/windproof type lighter then only about 1.5- 2 seconds. You will see a dramatic difference in your repairs even in warmer weather. Don't do too much .. just enough to get the air moving some.


Posted: August 27th, 2003, 10:41 am
by gold star wsr

Two words I never use in windshield repair are 'disappear' & 'invisible'.
As mentioned, there will always be some scarring, and when the light enters at certain angles, the repair will be seen. Even the very best repairs, done with the very best resins, are still visible to some degree.

To answer the question of what to do if legs do not connect to the center:

Gently apply pressure in the direction of the center on the end of the leg closest to the center. I use my sharp probe for this, to concentrate as much pressure as possible directly on the leg. Using something blunt will distribute the pressure over a wider area, making it harder to achieve the desired result.

Keep up the good work. Grace