Circle Damage?

[toab]

Also I am noticeing that i am getting better star resin penetration with the bigger bits

[glassfixerCO]

Speaking of star-fill resin. If the large odd-shaped damage is what I'm thinking, then after drilling a pilot hole on the largest area of the damage use star fill in the injector and you might find the entire area fills better.

[zlm_us]

Sorry it took so long for a picture. The sun really killed this image and left a shadow on the left side. The spot in the middle I believe is just because the shield is dirty.
Does anyone have any sheets with the ruler on the them that they could email me? I would appreciate it.

circle damage

[maxryde]

It is wise to refer the replacement if possable as it will not usually have the prefered outcome as a repair, that being said, I have repaired a few like this after drilling for access at the highest point on either side or both as needed. Damage that size is from a large object and access from the impact point is not available so you need to gain it from another point. the best result is going to come from minimal drilling and some patience and luck.Some damage like that would require drilling a bunch of holes to gain access so..... less drilling is prefered.

[mafsu]

Break out your pit fill resin and cure tabs. Use pitfill over the length of the open crack(on the pictured damage this would be the inside circle). After you have sealed the damage find somewhere to drill, I usually will drill near the top of the damage. Repair as you would a bullseye. These can take some time to get the air out of. Scrape the pitfill off and you're done. These can look intimidating at first, but once you close off the open crack it's just a weird shaped bullseye.

[sunshine wr]

I agree with mafsu. I will cover the whole area with pit resin and drill at a point that will gain access to the entire break and fill as usual with as many vac. & press. cycles as needed(they are tight breaks sometimes).

[mrchip]

i agree with the last two comments.. i would drill top bullseye and i believe it would fill all around.. if not i would then drill at bottom where the two lines cross..in any event it will be repaired...maybe not a pretty sight but at least it would be repaired ....and thats what we are in business for

[screenman]

On this damage you will see that there is surface damage do not pit fill yet. You will also see that the damage goes away from the surface down through the glass to the pvb Drill and pop to the outside of this black area at the widest point. looking at your picture this will be about 10 o,clock then apply bridge and fill, it will takes seconds to flow round and fill the complete break.
By drilling where the legs cross will not get yoy very far as these are surface breaks only. Get in as deep as possible. We have a lot of experience over here with these types of damage as Austin Rover used to use a very thin glass and almost every break was of this description. By drilling to the deepest point and not pit filling, you will in effect be filling an open ended tube, once you see the damage is full then place a curing rab over and cure under pressure then scrape and pit fill. If the damage is dry to start with job will be complete in a few minutes if it is not you have got it wrong.
I have probably done hundreds if not thousands of these repairs so please give it a try.

[sunshine wr]

It is my experence with these breaks that they are surface cracks the full length of the damage. That is why I reccomend pit filler over the whole area first. (pit filler, tab and cure quikly so filler doesn't run inside the break). Otherwise you can't pull vacuum and when you inject you will have resin running everywhere.

[zlm_us]

I did the repair today and I have mixed feelings about the outcome. I dont know if I would do another one or not. This damage happened around 11/05 so I am sure that it makes a big differnce in the quality of the repair. I normally would not have touched it, but it looked like such a challenge. First I did not have any leakage while filling. I however had to drill all the way to the pvb, because I could not get any flow of resin drilling the regular depth. I also had to drill about 4 holes in order to get the resin to fill the complete break. The glass had a small surface crack all the way around, and several small missing pieces of glass. The repair actually looks alot better then what it looks in front of the white paper. You can still see were the ring was because of the pit resin in the fine crack around the break. I am curious if you would charge for the repair and what would be a fair price. It took about two hours. It is a fleet repair, so if I decide to charge I will bill them later.
Pictures