Circle Damage?

[Clarity Glass]

I use the same approach as Mr. Chip,Mafsu,and Sunshine WSR. First, I drill what I believe to be the main impact area and set up my injector. Then tab the surface cracks, let cure for 2 minutes, tighten injector seal and level bridge, then inject resin into break. After break is filled expose to UV for minimum 5 minutes. Remove injector, tab the drill hole and rest of exposed surface crack and cure. Most of these can be done in 30 minutes or so. You will see the crack lines, but before you start the repair explain that to the customer. Definitely bill the customer, you saved them from replacing.

[screenman]

Why did it take so long. If you needed to drill down to the pvb I suggest you need to practise a lot more with drilling and popping. Try using a magnifying glass and work out which way the break goes. If this repair was in a high mileage truck I would suggest you bill them. By pit filling these jobs first you leave lots of small areas in the top of the repair where there will be air bubbles when you are finished. Also with these style of breaks the area where the main impact appears to be is quite often the shallowest part of the break this is why I do not suggest drilling at this point its a bit like drilling a bullseye. If you repair these the way I suggest you will not need a vacuum cycle. If you shy away from to many jobs like this your opposition in fleet work will soon jump on it.Once again I have to finish by saying this way works best for me, I have tried the other ways mentioned and I have not had as much success. Whilst training someone today we some breaks like the one in the picture using a hammer and tried the various ways to repair mentioned here. I am glad what most people do works well for them.

Best of luck.

[sunshine wr]

screenman, The technique I mentioned, works well for me, with no "air bubbles" left in the repair. I would like to know, what you do about the resin coming from the crack?

[screenman]

Sunshinewr if it works for you thats great. The small amount of resin that comes out of the crack I will just place a piece of curing film over once it starts to flow. Then cure under pressure once the chip is full. Again I would say if dry this repair wil fill in seconds or a couple of minutes at most. The idea of this method is being able to fill whilst giving the air somewhere to escape to. But again whatever works for you is right for you. I tried your method yesterday and I am not saying it does not work, but I did find it took a lot longer and with less desirable results, however I am more practised at my method so that could be the reason. I tend to look for speed as well as quality when doing repairs.

[toab]

I agree with screenman to treat the repair as an open ended tube and use pit fill last. Just move the bridge around as necessary to get a complete fill in these types of breaks.If yuo are getting resin running out of different parts of the break than that means that you also have multiple exits for the air in the break and I say lucky you.