headlight restoration tips and advice..
Re: headlight restoration tips and advice..
Thanks for the info.I only meant that by getting the answer for a top quality top coat sealer would end my "thread or search" for a top coat .I really enjoy this forum and the information I gain every time I use it.I am always glad to share and learn what we all seek.Knowledge and an edge in this great business..........................Im going to give Nanotech a call monday.Thanks again.
Re: headlight restoration tips and advice..
So far it looks like its nanotech or dvelup> Havn't checked rightlook yet but I think it is safe to say that IPS is out for the average tech due to the specialized marketing scheme for that product.Keep it coming guys..theres gotta be more GOOD products out there yet.
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- Senior Member
- Posts: 626
- Joined: August 13th, 2003, 5:53 am
Re: headlight restoration tips and advice..
Nanotec is a totaly different product from the others. Kind of hard to explain here, but it works on a molecular level with the surface it's applied to. It's not a thick paint type coating . post #57 is right as to number of apllications per 100ml bottle when apllied per instructions.
Re: headlight restoration tips and advice..
Just curious.How much would it cost to get set up with the IPS sytem???Or is any one who is already set up willing to give access to the top coat only??Seems like a market for it on this forum.As popular as H/light restoration has become as an add on for w/shield repair maybe Delta could look in to it??HMMMMMMMMMMM..........just a thought.I will contact Nanotech and see Monday if they will sell a smaller bottle than the 100ml to check this stuff out.Will post results of call.
Re: headlight restoration tips and advice..
I have been offering h/l for the last 2 years now. I have tried and tested many products till date and now have my own product.
Basically I wet sand the lens starting from 400 or 600 grit depending of the severity of the damage. At times I have even started with 1000 grit and have managed to get the damage control done but takes a few more minutes than the usual. I would normally finish at 2000 grit with hard lenses and 2500 grit with soft lenses.
I used to polish all lenses after wet sanding with the Oxidation Remover from rightlook.com but now i am using a similiar product from a local 3M dealer but this compound is from Japan and it cost me about USD 20.00 for about 500ml. It does a fantastic job of fine sanding as this compound's cutting grit starts from about 2000 and breaks as you polish out till about 6000. It gives a fantastic shine and gloss and makes everyone's jaws drop at this process. Yet ...
After polishing, I use rightlook.com's "Shine Restorer & Protector" and that stuff is really good. It's a top coat and application is so simple and it dries within minutes. On the norm I apply 2 coats and results I must say is almost perfect (99%). The Shine Restorer & Protector is a clear coat and it adheres to plastic becoming a film after it fully cures.
I'm not sure of the top coat from IPS but the others (nanotec or so) are just liquid that you apply but doesn't become a film. In many cases, its just like liquid wax (vinyl protector) and will wash away after some time but not the 'Shine Restorer & Protector' as it becomes like a film.
I have done thousands of cars till date and this method is the only method I use and trust. Till today, I've not had a single complaint and have only re-restored about 20 h/l (from 2004). You must also know that the "Shine Restorer & Protector" will become yellow or opaque after some time (normally in 2 years or so) but removing it and re-restoring the h/l is faster and easier the 2nd time around.
Recently I did receive a few more samples of h/l kits and tried them all but the finishing is no where close to what I am used to. I must add that all these kits do work but to a certain extend only. Most of these kits kind of does a "cover-up" the damage job only and not removing the damage which can only be achieved by wet sanding.
As such, I've improvised my restoration system now. All sanding is now done by using a 3" orbital sander (pneumatic, dual action). The reason i chose pneumatic is because i still wet sand and a normal electrical orbital sander is not advisable to be used when you wet sand. It also has a variable speed which is very helpful when i polish the lenses off!
Using the pneumatic orbital sander makes my sanding job easier and I can see that the finishing is much more smoother than hand sanding. I've got a dealer here to custom make sand papers (3" velcro type) and grits starting from 320 till 2000. When I used to hand sand, I would normally use 5 different grits of sand paper but with the orbital sander, 3 different grits is more than sufficient.
Most of the time, I'll be restoring at dealers and would normally use their air compressor and water but if the place I'm going to does not have an air compressor I carry a small air compressor (2.5hp, 40l) which is sufficient.
If anyone needs any more info pls drop me a line.
Links to my kit:
Orbital Sander
Shine Restorer
Basically I wet sand the lens starting from 400 or 600 grit depending of the severity of the damage. At times I have even started with 1000 grit and have managed to get the damage control done but takes a few more minutes than the usual. I would normally finish at 2000 grit with hard lenses and 2500 grit with soft lenses.
I used to polish all lenses after wet sanding with the Oxidation Remover from rightlook.com but now i am using a similiar product from a local 3M dealer but this compound is from Japan and it cost me about USD 20.00 for about 500ml. It does a fantastic job of fine sanding as this compound's cutting grit starts from about 2000 and breaks as you polish out till about 6000. It gives a fantastic shine and gloss and makes everyone's jaws drop at this process. Yet ...
After polishing, I use rightlook.com's "Shine Restorer & Protector" and that stuff is really good. It's a top coat and application is so simple and it dries within minutes. On the norm I apply 2 coats and results I must say is almost perfect (99%). The Shine Restorer & Protector is a clear coat and it adheres to plastic becoming a film after it fully cures.
I'm not sure of the top coat from IPS but the others (nanotec or so) are just liquid that you apply but doesn't become a film. In many cases, its just like liquid wax (vinyl protector) and will wash away after some time but not the 'Shine Restorer & Protector' as it becomes like a film.
I have done thousands of cars till date and this method is the only method I use and trust. Till today, I've not had a single complaint and have only re-restored about 20 h/l (from 2004). You must also know that the "Shine Restorer & Protector" will become yellow or opaque after some time (normally in 2 years or so) but removing it and re-restoring the h/l is faster and easier the 2nd time around.
Recently I did receive a few more samples of h/l kits and tried them all but the finishing is no where close to what I am used to. I must add that all these kits do work but to a certain extend only. Most of these kits kind of does a "cover-up" the damage job only and not removing the damage which can only be achieved by wet sanding.
As such, I've improvised my restoration system now. All sanding is now done by using a 3" orbital sander (pneumatic, dual action). The reason i chose pneumatic is because i still wet sand and a normal electrical orbital sander is not advisable to be used when you wet sand. It also has a variable speed which is very helpful when i polish the lenses off!
Using the pneumatic orbital sander makes my sanding job easier and I can see that the finishing is much more smoother than hand sanding. I've got a dealer here to custom make sand papers (3" velcro type) and grits starting from 320 till 2000. When I used to hand sand, I would normally use 5 different grits of sand paper but with the orbital sander, 3 different grits is more than sufficient.
Most of the time, I'll be restoring at dealers and would normally use their air compressor and water but if the place I'm going to does not have an air compressor I carry a small air compressor (2.5hp, 40l) which is sufficient.
If anyone needs any more info pls drop me a line.
Links to my kit:
Orbital Sander
Shine Restorer
Re: headlight restoration tips and advice..
Thanks k9mkt...I will research what you gave us and if the price is right for what appears to be a quality top coat/clear than my system will be finished and so will hopefully others and that should finally end this thread.DONE
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- Senior Member
- Posts: 626
- Joined: August 13th, 2003, 5:53 am
Re: headlight restoration tips and advice..
k9mkt, Do some research on Nanotec. It's obvious from post #65 you havn't used Nanotec and you don't know anything about it.
Re: headlight restoration tips and advice..
Ok, here is the pricing for Nanotech 30ml (about 1 oz) $50.00 100ml(3.4 oz) $90.00.The rep said you need to have the lens free of all polish /wax residue before application or use their polish $100.00 per liter (concentrated)mix 1 to 1 with distilled water.But on the other hand the Rightlook sealer is $19.99 for 8 oz.Both from what the techs on this forum say last approx. 2 years.I also Emailed the IPS co last night and a rep called me and left 2 messages on my voice mail.They were the only one not to send info return by email.I think I know where his pitch is going. Dvelup wants to sell me a complete chemical refill kit for $115.00 after I plainly requested pricing on the slicker/top seal only.After looking at their "special polishing tool" ( a $29.95 Harbor Freight buffer,I know I own one!!) with 3" buff pad for $139.99 I can see where they are going also.Now I feel its down to Nanotech or Rightlook.The question I need answered here is if you use Nanotech will the 3m nonsilicone compound I use have to be cleaned from the lens with what???before appling the Nanotech.I know I should have asked rep but he said use has $100.00 polish.I am open to both ideas but the Rightlook is looking better all the time.Comments??????????????
Re: headlight restoration tips and advice..
Just curious SunshineWR what area do you live in.It seems that you do not have much info on your profile.Just wondering..............
Re: headlight restoration tips and advice..
What makes you say that??? Assumptions???sunshine wr;21610 wrote:k9mkt, Do some research on Nanotec. It's obvious from post #65 you havn't used Nanotec and you don't know anything about it.
FYI, I'm using a nanotec product for my windshield ... its called "Nanoprotect" Automotive Glass Protection and fyi, I'm also a "distributor" for this product in my country. I get all my stuff DIRECTLY from Australia .. http://www.nanotec.com.au .. and I'm pretty well known in this region for nanotechnology based products!
I'm also in the process of obtaining the "Pioneer" status for nanotechnology based products and services for this region, which means that I must know about Nanotechnology quite extensively. I'm also in the "guest list" for the International Conference on Advancement of Materials and Nanotechnology (ICAMN 2007) http://www.uitm.edu.my/uitm/index.php?o ... 0&Itemid=2
If all of the above does not convince you, then check with Larry Samuels or even the CEO of Nanotec, Graeme Riley about me and my dealings with them! ... So .. please .. Never assume! Cheers!
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