ppg resin/injector pressure

[TTGLASSMAN]

I was going to email this just to Delta Kits and thought I would post this instead. It of course probably has been discussed a million times but it is time consumming reading all the threads. I must say thanks to all the great repairs guys and gals on this forum. I have used many techniques and am happy so that not only do they help reduce my stress load/confidence but I give credit to you all when talking to my customers. I have been trained on a couple types of equipement ofer the last 13 years(not proud of some of it) and since going into business for myself in both repair and replacement some years ago, I have learned much more on repairs just from this site. It is nice to tell a customer that I learned tips from some of the best who make their living at saving winshields and that in it self sounds and is priceless. Okay, I am done applauding you all.

My email:
"I have tired the Delta Kit sample resin and liked it. I as have many had the dropper resin harden in it and came back on the next repair to realize it was clogged. I enjoy reading your forum about this problem/solution and many other repair topics. I am interested in updating some of our equipment and supplies. (enough for 2-3 kits). I currently use a red colored bridge with plastic injector from glass medic while one of my techs love using and old hand pump style system and ppg resin. I also like their glassmedic repair resin(sometimes I can not get those really tight cracks though but have with yours). There pit filler and polish is great and more affordable insmall quantities. I have done some really great repairs with these black plastic injectors but am still curious about your spring loaded ones. I have spoken with a customer service person at your place once and he indicted most of the successs of the repair comes off the pressure and not the vacuum. I am only worried that too much pressure may cause any crack to run while I find comfort in knowing that the plastic injectors and seals do not have as much

[wilz]

was going to email this just to Delta Kits and thought I would post this instead. It of course probably has been discussed a million times but it is time consumming reading all the threads. I must say thanks to all the great repairs guys and gals on this forum. I have used many techniques and am happy so that not only do they help reduce my stress load/confidence but I give credit to you all when talking to my customers. I have been trained on a couple types of equipement ofer the last 13 years(not proud of some of it) and since going into business for myself in both repair and replacement some years ago, I have learned much more on repairs just from this site. It is nice to tell a customer that I learned tips from some of the best who make their living at saving winshields and that in it self sounds and is priceless. Okay, I am done applauding you all.

Thanks for the kind words.

I front load the injector with as few as three jobs most of the time(I have seen notes from Delta that you are to usually use 7 drops). If I use that much most of the time I have resin running down the windshield

I don't understand. What do you mean? How many drops of resin do you use per repair?

It also fills nice but it does not seem to cure as fast even in direct sunligh or under my UV light while others resins I have used cure almost as fast as they are running down the glass. Is this stuff supposed to take a long time to cure?

I mainly use GM's resins and i have tried many other resins including Delta's. I have yet to come across one that that have had this problem. Maybe Jeff might be able to help out on this one.

I currently use a red colored bridge with plastic injector from glass medic while one of my techs love using and old hand pump style system and ppg resin.

Never thought that ppg distributed wsr resins. It's good to know though.

[Delta Kits]

I was going to email this just to Delta Kits and thought I would post this instead.

Sorry for the late response, next time if you want a prompt answer from us, I'd suggest also emailing it. I was in and out of the office all day yesterday.

I have tired the Delta Kit sample resin and liked it. I as have many had the dropper resin harden in it and came back on the next repair to realize it was clogged.

Are you talking about the eye dropper that comes with the glass bottles? Or the tip that comes with the plastic bottles? If it's the eye dropper, pull up denatured alcohol between uses to clean the inside of the dropper. Our droppers now are made from a material that does not break down from alcohol. If it's the dropper tip, and our resin, the only thing I can think is leaving the cap off too long, never heard of that problem before.

I currently use a red colored bridge with plastic injector from glass medic while one of my techs love using and old hand pump style system and ppg resin.

PPG resin is our resin. We put our resin in bottles with the PPG AutoGlass name. The two resins for them are MagniBond, which is Part #6001 and Premium Pit Resin, which is Part #6002. These are the same resins that were tested and passed the BSI Test (http://www.deltakits.com/files/bsitest.pdf PDF)

I have done some really great repairs with these black plastic injectors but am still curious about your spring loaded ones. I have spoken with a customer service person at your place once and he indicted most of the successs of the repair comes off the pressure and not the vacuum. I am only worried that too much pressure may cause any crack to run while I find comfort in knowing that the plastic injectors and seals do not have as much “force” behind them to cause more potential spreading. I also tend to cycle the piston in and out several times to work the air out of the break and the resin in(gently).

One of the most common misconceptions about our system is the "pressure" part. Yes, it does put pressure, but it's hydraulic pressure, NOT air pressure. What does this mean? It means it takes far less pressure to inject resin hydraulically than using air pressure. When you have a closed system, your piston pushes on air, which then compresses the air to push in the resin. Our system pushes the resin from piston to resin only. Much less "dangerous" pressure than air pressure systems. If that confused you, give us a call and we can explain it further.

I front load the injector with as few as three jobs most of the time(I have seen notes from Delta that you are to usually use 7 drops).

A "drop" typically varies from tech to tech. We say 7 drops, but in reality it takes less to do a repair. This is not a place to skimp though (yes I know, I basically sell resin, but that doesn't necessarily make me wrong!). Figure out your cost per drop. We consider 7 drops to be .15ml, so one drop is .02ml, and if you buy resin at $55 per ounce, one drop costs 3 cents. It doesn't cost much to ensure you have enough resin to fill a break. If you try to skimp and run out, how much time (time=technicians time=money) does it take to remove the injector and put a few extra drops? If you only have to do this one time per 100 repairs, you're still losing money than if you put in the proper amount in the first place.

Which brings me to the PPG resin our office got. I once used stuff from Pilkington and thought it was just "creek water" so we would buy more glass. I saw that the PPG stuff was bottled by Delta kits and I thought it had to be better and have been using it for the last 20 repairs. It also fills nice but it does not seem to cure as fast even in direct sunligh or under my UV light while others resins I have used cure almost as fast as they are running down the glass. Is this stuff supposed to take a long time to cure?

The PPG resin is our resin that we simply re brand for the PPG AutoGlass name. It, as well as all other acrylic acid based resins, cure with two factors. One, UV light. Two, lack of exposure to air. Our resins will take a very long time to cure if not covered by a curing tab or tape. It's not just to hold the resin in place, it's to remove the resin's exposure to air during the curing process. It cures anaerobically, meaning without air. So if your other resin cures WHILE running down the glass, something is wrong. It shouldn't cure that fast. As far as ours goes, we recommend a 3-5 minute full cure. Windshields block around 99% of UV light, so even though you can get a flash cure of the top layer in 30 seconds, to fully cure an entire break will take 3-5 minutes using our lights. Some people advertise their "30 second cure lights" or such things, well ours is too, as long as you're talking about surface curing. You didn't mention what light you're using, but lights that are powered by AA batteries, will take a LONG time to cure, or lights that don't put out much in the 365nm long wave UV range will take a long time. So, make sure to use a light designed for curing resin.

Hope some of that helped. Since you're using PPG resin, you also have unlimited technical support from us, so don't hesitate to call and pick our tech support people's brains...They just sit around playing online poker all the time anyway, so don't worry about bothering them!

[TTGLASSMAN]

Thank you both. Sorry about the type-o's. I use about 3 drops/job. I can usually judge the right amount every time. Your right, it would be foolish to add too little. I use a 9w dual u-shaped tube UV light that plugs into cigarette lighter. I was unaware of the mylar also aiding in curing by preventing air. I really did think it was just for hloding the resin in place.

New question: Are the 4 watt bulb UV lights any good? I see some like that and others that are 9-12 watts. What spectrum of wavelength of light is best for curing our resins?

On very sunny days I do not use a light but once in a while on overcast days it is a must. I find it helps sometimes to cure with a light before taking the presure off the repaired chip.

[Delta Kits]

365nm is what ours (and most resins cure at). Watts is only one factor in curing. I would rather have a 4 watt light that sits as close to the windshield as ours does, than a theoretical 50 watt light that's a few feet away. Just by moving a light a few inches from the glass, it can reduce the effectiveness by approximately 50%!!!

So, sure, our 40-14's are more powerful, but keep in mind when purchasing how close they sit to the damage.