Star repair question

[GPrepairs]

I just performed a repair on a star break and it spanned about 1 inch to one side and the other 3 legs about 1/2 to 3/4 inch. When I was finished and examined the overall look from the top it looked much better but as I went inside to look it would appear that I never touched it. Is there something I missed on this type of repair or is it normal? The break was about 3 inches from the edge of the windshield if that makes any difference. Thanks for any response on the matter.

Gprepairs

[GlassStarz]

This is why we observe the repair process from inside as well often the repair looks done from one view but not the other in most cases more time would have filled it better

[Layne]

Not many will agree with this...I use the flame from a bar-b-que lighter on the inside glaas to aid in filling these legs. I simply wave it back and forth under the damaged area but I am careful not to get it too hot. Wipe off the carbon residue and repeat the process if necessary. It works for me!

[GlassStarz]

Laynes method works well the heat opens the leg when it cools the resin is pulled in

[CrackMagic]

If heat is required, I use a mini torch so I don't have to deal with the carbon residue.

[Mr Bill]

Did you remove moisture from the break?

[screenman]

To echo Mr Bill did you dry it out? I would suggest if it looked filled from outside to your eye then there was probably moisture present, this would show up more from inside. It is also very important that you do not allow premature curing when doing repairs like this that can take a while to fill. I hope this repair was on a practise shield and not a customers one, mind you it is what most of the repairs carried out in the UK look like. There are lots of techniques for filling stars, some I would suggest you not try until you are more experienced.

[Brent Deines]

Not many will agree with this...I use the flame from a bar-b-que lighter on the inside glaas to aid in filling these legs. I simply wave it back and forth under the damaged area but I am careful not to get it too hot. Wipe off the carbon residue and repeat the process if necessary. It works for me!

Just a note of clarification; if you heat the glass too much it will actually expand and close the cracks, making the legs on a star break appear filled, but when the break cools the cracks will open back up. Therefore you always want to allow the glass to cool a bit before removing the injector to make sure that the cracks are actually filled and not just temporarily closed.

That's not to say I disagree with using a little heat to warm up a star break. Warming the glass will help the resin to flow into the cracks better. I prefer heating from the outside of the glass as it requires far less heat to get the same results, but I always carry a lighter with me as well just in case I don't have anywhere to plug in my hair dryer.

The moisture evaporator works from the outside as well, but with the injector on the glass the hair dryer and lighter are more efficient.

This time of year most of us don't need to use heat, but our mornings here in Oregon are generally cool all year long, so even in the summer we'll use a little heat from time to time.