pit filler splashed on paint

[harrellbenjamin]

I use the big delta hood protector all the time.I attached several magnets along the borders and it works great.Will not blow off either.I would not know why anyone would not use one.Every mechanic in the country uses them every day too for the fenders etc.

[new guy]

This sounds like a sticky situation. I've searched "liability insurance" and come up empty handed. Does any insurance cover this situation? Any recommendations?

[ProView WR]

A lot of us use RLI as our liability ins, but they only cover the car NEXT to the one you are working on apparently. As for talking to my agent, I was told they would not cover the car I was working on, but if one of my "tools" flew out of my hand and hit the car next to me, they would cover that. Too bad the resin didn't fly out of the cap onto the next car.

[mrchip]

sorry to hear of your dilemma..is rhe car a new car?..if its several years old I'm sure ther are nicks and scratches already in the car..maybe if you explain there is nothing you can do he won't push the issue and ask for a removal and paint job...that could really hurt..if you have to try something try oven cleaner..we use that to take off painted pinstripes..good luck

[TechEvo]

maybe try this.

Tape thoroughly around all the spots of resin so that all the paint is protected leaving just the resin spot as a hole sticking out from the tape. Then wet sand with say a 2000 grit paper taking it down slowly. Continue to check the taped area as you are sanding and reapply tape as neccessary this should let you sand down to the clear coat with out damaging the paint when down correctly. Remove the tape and polish the spot. Mind you if your not good at wetsanding and polishing I would get a painter to do this for you.

[Sneck]

This would be a long shot, and probably hard to do (if not nearly impossible)and it may not work at all, and I risk being labeled an idiot, but it couldn't hurt... so here it goes...

What about trying to radically change the temerature of the affected metal. Obviously pit filler is somewhat flexible so it may flex with the contraction and expension of the metal, but maybe, just maybe, if you could change the temp of the metal from cold to hot, then perhaps the pit filler may loose its hold on the paint because it may not be flexible enough to expand fast enough (or far enought) with the heating metal going from cold to hot, then pop the pit filler off with a non-marking nylon scaper without disturbing the paint.

Maybe use ice and a heat gun, or better yet -drive the car into a refrigerated semi-truck to get it good and frosty, then pull it out and zap some heat on the affected area.

This idea is so darn crazy - it just might work.

Good Luck man! let us know how it goes.

[Lee]

I would test this first on a non critical place on a car(like under the hood or in the trunk) to see what the reaction would be. Try Locktite Mirror Bracket Primer. This takes off dried urethane but you have to rub hard to do this. It may work on this but I would test an area first to see what it will do. Do not get this on plastic it will stain it. HTH

[FREENCLEAR]

Rubbing Alch. And A Razor Blade Works Great ! I Had An Employee Drop A Dime Size Of Pit Resin On The Hood Of A Car Last Year !
It Takes A Steady Hand - Take A Rag Soak It In Rubbing Alchol Work It Into The Resin For Ten To Twenty Min. Then Very Steadily Take The Razor To The Side Of The Resin Not Against The Paint But As Close As You Can Apply Preasure When The Razor Gets A Grip Flick Upward Repeat This Process Until It Pops Of ! Our Incident Was Three Days Old And After It Popped I Just Buffed The Area By Hand And It Looked Brand New - It Was A New Car Im Sure If The Paint Is Old It Might Take The Paint - Also The R. Alch. Will Lighten The Clear Coat But Dont Worry My Detail Shop Has Used This Method For Years To Remove Hard Wood Sap ! The Paint Will Shine Up With A Finess Or A Compound Maybe Even C. Wax ! Fnc

[screenman]

I did 5 experiments with this yesterday on a bonnet we had in the shop, the first 4 tests came off very easy with a blade, for the 5th test I cleaned the bonnet with acetone to remove any wax etc. that may have been on it, this made it far harder to remove the pitfill. Carefull chiseling with a new blade and finishing with a rubbing compound and wax polish left the area in good condition. Each time I did the test I allowed the resin to stay in a liquid state for a while before curing to try and simulate outside conditions. So to sum up carefull carefull with a blade is we find the best way to remove it.

Best of luck.

[chipper]

hey guys thanks for all the great ideas!

so far the client has been busy and hasn't had time to deal with it. so i guess i'm on the back burner for now. but i will try these ideas.

thanks!