Crater Advice

[robert n]

Any advice on filling the crater on a star break? My pre-repaired crater looks like a "clam shell" with those lines. All the legs filled up nicely. After removing the bridge, I try to fill with the Pit Resin and the Curing Tab. Each time the crater appears to be filled with resin under the tab before and after the curing of the UV Lamp (over 7 minutes..to make sure it's cured). But after scraping with the razor (perpendicular)...I can see that the crater is still not level to the top of the crater/windshield. Should I be using a thicker resin? BTW: my practice windshield is slanted at around 85 degree...is that why my resin is running out of the crater?

[Brent Deines]

Place the curing tab just below the pit (crater) and place your pit resin between the tab and the glass, then allow the tab to fold back over the pit and do not push on it. Works every time for me regardless of pit size or angle of the glass, but you could use a higher viscosity resin if you feel it is easier to use when filling large pits.

I'm still trying to figure out how you kept your seal from leaking as you filled the star if the pit is that large. What system are you using? Did you use a large pit adapter? If using a Delta Kits system I fill the pit with pit resin first and cure it to form a cap over the break, then drill through the cap and apply the injector to fill the legs of the star break.

The only other thing I can think of is that you may have a hydrophobic coating on the glass that is keeping your pit resin from sticking, or you are using a pit resin that has a high shrinkage rate. If a hydrophobic coating has been applied you need to remove it or the pit resin will stick to the curing tab rather than the glass. If your pit resin shrinks noticeably you should try a new resin.

[robert n]

Hi Brent, thanks for your response. I have had my Delta Kit for 2 weeks and have been using my practice windshield, so I lack experience doing this and still have a lot to learn. I did not know that there is a “large pit adapter”. I was using the standard injector. I thought the injector fills the inside cracks and the pit resin is used to fill the remaining area (top off) level with the windshield (am I wrong?). I used the curing tab and resin per your instructions and DVD. I don’t push down on the cure tab, but the resin does not seem to make a “hump” between the WS and Cure Tab. It just seems to spread out over the pit area and windshield. To me, it looks like it fills the crater and overflows to the curing tab…it is just when I scrape off the resin (perpendicular motion)…the resin is still “cloudy” in the crater area. Is this just the normal “scar” that will remain?

[Fuzz]

Newbie just like you but...

I beleive that is just the scar you are refering to. If it feels smooth and is fully cured then I think you are good to go. I have only had a few repairs that were basically invisible but it is not the norm for me. Almost always there is a kinda cloudy looking dot left at the pit.

[Brent Deines]

Delta Kits does not sell a large pit adapter, which is why I said, "If using a Delta Kits system I fill the pit with pit resin first and cure it to form a cap over the break, then drill through the cap and apply the injector to fill the legs of the star break." In hindsight I should not have mentioned the large pit adapter, but I was trying to determine how you got the legs of the star to fill properly if the pit area was so large you were having problems filling it with pit resin. I should have also made it clear that I only "cap a pit" prior to filling the body of the break if the pit area is too large to effectively cover with the end seal. A good seal is very important for best results.

I'm still confused as to why you cannot get the pit area to fill if you are following the directions on the video. You don't necessarily need a "hump" of pit resin over the pit area. We use that term to let technicians know that the resin needs to be above the surface of the glass so that when you scrape it down the cured resin will be level with the glass. I suggest you call and speak with a Delta Kits technician as there must be something I am missing, and I am 100% confident that it is something very simple.

After the resin is scraped down it will appear cloudy whitish, just as a headlight will look after it is sanded. Both are made of plastic so sanding or scraping will scratch the surface and produce that look. When you polish with pit polish and a clean rag the filled pit should no longer be white, but it will still be visible. It should be translucent but will typically look like a water spot on the glass. On a small break this may be nearly undetectable, but understandably, the larger the pit area the more visible it will be.

By the way, there is no need to cure for 7 minutes if you are using our 40-13 light. We recommend 5 minutes which is more than enough to cure not only the pit resin, but also the resin in the cracks and deep in the damage.

I understand you may be coming to our next training class? If that is the case be sure to mention anything you are having problems with so we can address those issues specifically.

[robert n]

Thanks again for your response. I should have mentioned that the crater/bowl is around 1/4" in diameter.
I tried to cure with 7 minutes to insure the resin has cured. Here are the 2 separate techniques I tried after the cure:

1. scrape with razor perpendicular
2. slice with razor level with windshield

Same results after each technique Like you say, after buffing.... it is translucent and looks like a water spot. I guess there is not much more i can do .

I'm looking forward to the training class next week!

[Kgobin]

We are looking forward to meeting you in person and I am sure that we will take your repair quality to the next level!

[Eco Steam]

I carry a small bottle of 91% Alcohol with me and I spray a mist onto a towel and carefully dab/wipe the area around the chip/crack. THis will help remove ANY possible water repellent around the damaged area.

I also use it in the summer time to assist with the cooling down of the windshield if it's too hot. It's ALWAYS been a miracle product for me!

I wouldn't allow it to get into the crack or chip though....then again it does evaporate rather quickly....

[Kgobin]

You have to be careful when using alcohol because it can effectively melt the PVB. Here is a previous post explaining Also, If a hydrophobic coating has been applied you can use the moisture evaporator or steel quad O to remove it.

[Glasseye]

When I am completing a repair, I wipe off the excess repair resin and then apply the pitfill just above the crater and let it flow down into the crater. This allows you to check no air is trapped in the resin. If there are any bubbles these can easily be teased out before applying the mylar patch lightly over the crater. If the crater is so big that the resin does not completely fill the gap between the crater and the mylar I quickly remove the mylar and apply a drop of pitfill resin onto the mylar itself and lightly replace it onto the crater, then cure. I use a stiff mylar for curing