Tiny Chip to 3" Crack...Grrr

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bill lambeth
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Re: Tiny Chip to 3" Crack...Grrr

Post by bill lambeth » January 10th, 2014, 5:47 pm

You have to be like a QB that throws a interception ! Forget about it ! It is going to happen if you do this everyday for sure ! Does not bother me one bit now ! I just move on! Does not happen that often to me but when it does I am always 99 percent why it did !
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Re: Tiny Chip to 3" Crack...Grrr

Post by screenman » January 11th, 2014, 12:48 am

Almost every long crack I ever come across started off in life as something much smaller.

Nice thing about a runner is that it will always be nice and clean and very often repairable.
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Re: Tiny Chip to 3" Crack...Grrr

Post by glassdoctor » January 11th, 2014, 2:51 pm

My guess is that the star had moisture in it. Especially combined with excess pressure of any kind... that could happen. If it was completely dry? Still possible, but much more of a fluke it's that's the case.

Btw, if it did have moisture in it, the long term results wouldn't have been good anyway. Moisture is enemy #1 to a good repair, and it can fool you.
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blemon56 (January 11th, 2014, 7:35 pm)
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blemon56
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Re: Tiny Chip to 3" Crack...Grrr

Post by blemon56 » January 11th, 2014, 7:43 pm

Moisture is a possibility as it was raining prior to the repair. I did use the moisture evaporator prior to setting the injector bridge, but it was such a small break I felt it was not an issue. Thanks for the info.
ChipMech
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screenman
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Re: Tiny Chip to 3" Crack...Grrr

Post by screenman » January 12th, 2014, 1:45 am

Moisture unfortunately is always an issue. Did you use the heat sink after the Drystar?

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Re: Tiny Chip to 3" Crack...Grrr

Post by blemon56 » January 14th, 2014, 7:26 pm

Actually, I didn't use the heat sync... I was dealing with weather issues and when I was ready to mount the bridge the glass was cool to the touch. That's another possible cause. Thanks.
ChipMech
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Re: Tiny Chip to 3" Crack...Grrr

Post by t4k » January 15th, 2014, 6:13 am

blemon56 wrote:Actually, I didn't use the heat sync... I was dealing with weather issues and when I was ready to mount the bridge the glass was cool to the touch. That's another possible cause. Thanks.
If the heated area had returned to ambient temperature, or the same temp. as the rest of the windshield, then the heat sync was not needed. It's main purpose is to cool the glass more quickly.

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Re: Tiny Chip to 3" Crack...Grrr

Post by screenman » January 15th, 2014, 2:47 pm

IF, now that can be a big words, we have found in tests carried out inside using infra red thermometer that it can take up to 60+ minutes to return to ambient temperature after using a heat source, it was few years ago so forgive me if I cannot remember the temperatures. Hence my reason for starting to use a heat sink before they were invented for windshield repair.

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Re: Tiny Chip to 3" Crack...Grrr

Post by t4k » January 15th, 2014, 4:20 pm

That's exactly the reason for my use of the word "if" in this case, a big word but fitting. I remember your extensive study of heat syncs in the past and we are most grateful for you sharing this info with us again.

Thanks again!!!

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Re: Tiny Chip to 3" Crack...Grrr

Post by blemon56 » January 15th, 2014, 7:17 pm

IF the windshield can take 60 minutes to return to ambient, and I don't doubt your comment... How long do you apply the heat sync to bring the chip area anywhere close to ambient?

Normally I use the heat sync after the drystar... drystar for 30 seconds, wait a minute or so, then the heat sync for about 30 seconds. This chip was so small that I only used the heat sync because it was misting out and I had dried the windshield with a towel. So I applied the drystar for about 20 seconds, covered it with a dry towel, went to my RV to get my UV dome and covered the area so I could work the chip. When I removed the towel the windshield felt cool to the touch around the chip area, so I skipped the heat sync and mounted the bridge. I guess if you use the drystar you must always use the heat sync.

Thanks for your comments.
ChipMech
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