FG 329 (Small Drill Bit)

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GlassStarz
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Re: FG 329 (Small Drill Bit)

Post by GlassStarz »

Not sure why you would drill that deep?Or if you are holding it firmly and burping it why you would be breaking any bits?
bill lambeth
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Re: FG 329 (Small Drill Bit)

Post by bill lambeth »

I use the same bit for at least 2-3 months ! The only way mine break is when I drop my dremel.
clearquest
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Re: FG 329 (Small Drill Bit)

Post by clearquest »

a big cause of broken bits is too much heat buildup. Run drill for short 5 seconds with brief pauses in between and dont put too much pressure downward. The bits get quite hot when cutting into the glass and this will reduce that heat and greatly extend the liFe of the bit.
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Re: FG 329 (Small Drill Bit)

Post by bill lambeth »

Bits should be only to clean the pit out ! You can do 99% of all chips without drilling . Drilling speeds the repair up . Cosmetically a repair does look better without drilling . I would say only 10 % better to me ! Most people are not going to be able to tell the difference between drilled and not drilled. If I am not behind the eight ball I will not drill . I do think equipment does have a lot to do with how you want to approach this ! If I am using something that is all displacement then I am going to drill for sure !
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Brent Deines
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Re: FG 329 (Small Drill Bit)

Post by Brent Deines »

I use the "displacement" method which is really a misnomer. All windshield repair systems inject resin and remove air. The only difference is whether you start with vacuum or start with pressure and whether "true" hydraulic pressure or air pressure is used to inject the resin. Which type of system you use should make no difference in the need to drill or not if the system is being used correctly.

Using the system and method that I use I agree with Bill that in some instances drilling will speed up the filling process but not but much. However, I think a properly repaired break that has not been drilled looks more than 10% better than a drilled repair and customers are much happier if there is no drill hole.

I use drill bits in these instances only:

1. Drilling the end of a long crack to keep the crack from running resin reaches the end of the crack under pressure. I have found that the FG701 bur and a spring hammer make the most consistent mini-bullseyes without creating additional damage. The slide hammer takes a little more practice to control but also works very well and will create bullseyes of different sizes as desired. Smaller burs and sewing needles are not nearly as consistent in our very extensive testing. If the point is too small it will create very small cracks that can result in additional damage. It is very important that the size and shape of the point is matched properly to the size of the hole. The depth of the hole is also very important for consistent results. We have also found that rotating the FG701 during the drilling process creates the optimal hole diameter and shape while going to an FG702 bur and drilling straight will provide the same size hole, the shape is slightly different and the results are not as good.

2. Drilling through the a capped pit. For this purpose I use an FG2 as it creates a very small hole, does not skip and does not require rotating to keep it from getting stuck in the hole and breaking. The FG329 is also suitable for this purpose and there is also no need to rotate during drilling to keep from breaking. The primary cause of breaking for either of these burs is using too much pressure or getting too hot, both of which are typically caused by using a dull bur.

3. If there is no surface damage at the impact point I will use the FG2 or FG329 to drill into the air space below the surface. Rarely do I find this necessary.

4. Disconnected damage will sometimes require drilling into an air space that cannot be filled from the impact point. I use the FG2 or FG329 for this purpose as well.

5. Cleaning crushed glass out of a pit area. The FG2 and FG329 are also very good choices for this application however I rarely find it necessary to use a drill to clean out a break. A couple of seconds with a steel probe or the tip of a spring hammer is almost always sufficient.

6. I can't remember the last time I could not fill a typical break without drilling that did not fall into one of the above categories but should that happen I would drill a shallow hole with an FG2 or FG329 bur at the impact point as a last result. I cannot speak for other systems but if using a delta kits glass repair system and finding yourself in this situation very often you are doing something else wrong and should call tech support.

In none of the above do I drill into the laminate and to keep my burs clean and performing their best I use a butane lighter to burn off glass residue after each hole is drilled and then wipe the bur clean. It only takes a few seconds but makes my burs last 2-5 times longer than if I don't follow this procedure. For those who prefer the fast drilling tapered burs there are very small sizes available as a replacement for the FG2 and FG329. When a bur gets dull I throw it away. It is not worth risking damaging a customers windshield just to get a couple of extra holes out of a bur and if you only drill one out of every hundred plus repairs bur cost is insignificant.
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salvatoreali
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Re: FG 329 (Small Drill Bit)

Post by salvatoreali »

I agree with Impala about the 701 fg bur.
Best part is if you get a tiny vice grip or pair of needle nose pliers you can snip off the tiniest portion of the tip and it gives you a new cutting edge.
One bur gives you about three times the lifespan if you are adept at this!
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