What\'s your method for removing water from chips?

[screenman]

StarQwest. I respect your opinion, but if it is ok to use when cutting laminate does that not damage the PVB. I have done lots of tests using different methods and I change from damage to damage, no 2 are the same. I have had no problem using dry out solutions as long as they are not left in the chip to long before heating, a couple of seconds is plenty.

Did you see my previous post stating that uncured resin marks and softens the PVB.

[StarQuest]

Screenman,

Yeah, I suppose you may be right about that!

If you can evaporate drying solution in a timely manner along with all moisture it possibly would have no adverse or very little effect to lami or resin.

I'll try this method out and let you and GP2 know how things turn out.

In Michigan we're dealing with daily moisture along with dropping temps and it's been taking me 20-25 minutes via every repair to get stuff dried properly. If I could narrow the dry time to 10-15 minutes and feel safe about it. I'd be a much happier person!

Thanks for the tech tips!

[GP2]

Yes, alcohol will break down PVB. However, as stated by screenman, uncured resin will too. The SO2 and NOx present in the moisture inside the chip is breaking down the PVB too, not to mention the glass itself. So there's really no perfect solution I believe, but there's some good ideas that work quite well. We're confident that if we can removed moisture in 93% of chips to an undetecable level with just the first air blast, then with rubbing alcohol and a second airblast we've removed as much as will come out, not including evap too.

[daris]

I do alot of work for sales carlots, even when its sunny outside they go and wash their cars because its a beautifull day. I just set my system as if I was doing a repair and pull an empty vacuum and put the defrost on and have a cigarette, for about 10 min. On cracks I just put the defrost on and have 2 cigarettes. Never had much problems this way and don't mean to be a smart ass.

[StarQuest]

daris,

Runnning the defrost helps to warm shield but when damage is loaded with moisture I suggest you smoke a few more cigarettes and wait for moisture to dry out or try using a quicker drying technique. Using the vehicle defrost alone won't cut it when your drying out saturated damage.

[Sneck]

All this chip-drying talk is GREAT STUFF! It's important, and yet it is often an over-looked step in the repair process. Keep the moisture-drying topic going because its now that time of year that most techs are going to have to deal with it sooner or later.

[tooldini]

What do you guys use for the air blast? Maybe a dumb question but I just don't know what I would use LOL

Jeff

[screenman]

Daris I am glad that works for you, I can only suggest you have a different weather system or type of water to some of us. We need to be far more aggresive with our drying out. We have found that not drying out properly will lead to reappearence of a damage even if it looks quite good when you finish it. Could you please send us some photo's of how wet your damage is and how it looks with only ten minutes of of defrost on. Do you allow the screen to cool back down or do you fill when the glass is still expanded and the chip contracted. What type of kit are you using to draw a vacuum? if it is just the injector do you swap the wet one for a dry one before you put the resin in or do you just dry it.

[screenman]

Tooldini,
We use a small compressor with a 25 litre tank but have in the past used smaller than this. I have tried compressed aerosol cans but have not found these cost effective or quite as efficient.

[Glasseye]

I use a Glass medic kit and prepare the damage with a moisture evaporator first then, like Daris, I pull an empty vacuum for 5-10 minutes