NY
Posted: September 24th, 2003, 6:51 pm
That or practice makes perfect. 

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I was going to post this idea (that I learned from screenman's old post) but it is already here!screenman wrote:Or even perfect practise makes perfect. I tend to just start my hole by twisting the bur back and forth a bit until I have a slight indentation. This back and forth motion keeps the drill in one spot, keep turning it in the same direction and it will travel, I also use the starting at an angle method. I must add that I got through a good few burrs on my practise screen before I was consistent with my drilling.
Wow! I didn't think it was quite this "touchy", good to know. I consider myself very maticulous but this is an eye opener. I'm new to the forum and find it facinating with some of the infomation shared. Thanks to everyone for sharing their experiences'.desertstars wrote:Thanks for your suggestions, folks.
Let me preface my remarks by stating that I started my business in 1988 and have used all of those techniques. None are failsafe. When working on a fleet Peterbilt, I'm not too concerned about a spiral scratch. When working on a $50,000 Lexus or Seville, I'm REAL concerned!
It gets hot here in Phoenix! (But, it's a dry heat, of course.)
When attempting to drill the end of a crack, the SLIGHTEST pressure on that windshield can spell disaster. Even affixing the injector equipment can be a ticklish situation. I normally apply oil to the suction cup, attach it to the w/s away from the damaged area, and then carefully slide it over. The problem of starting a drill point is particularly acute as one stretches to reach damage toward the center of the w/s in spite of using a three foot ladder. The customer doesn't appreciate it when he sees me leaning on any part of his vehicle and particularly the hood regardless of use of a hood protector.
So, for now, I am resigned to a crap shoot everytime I need to smooth- glass -drill.
Again, thanks for your suggestions.