do i did it wrong?

[chipfix]

To answer your last question first,heat from the outside if you are drying out a chip and heat from the inside to speed up the flow of resin...
(this should not be necessary unless it is cold (below freezing) and should be your last option "before drilling" if a leg wont fill )

If you didn't see the unfilled leg until after you cured either:

1-Some legs are almost invisible and thats why you should use a probe and put pressure around the impact point and see if any legs open up.
2-The leg was visible but disappeared when you applied heat (before heating count the number of legs "after probing" and make sure you see all of those legs fill)

You should complete the repair by drilling in the middle of the unfilled leg,pop a bullseye and fill from that point.
That is something you should learn because on some star breaks the leg wont be connected to the impact point and it is a technique used to anchor the end of long cracks.

Its good to see your not learning on a customers windshield.
Good luck

[PG Bullseye Repair]

Hi guys, I agree with Chipfix 100%, however I use one more trick that I have learned since using the Delta injectors, before I will drill (rarely drill at all) I remove the injector plunger, slide my probe into the injector body and flex the repair in the impact point to help move trapped air or small piece of fractured glass, I used this method 3 times today. I also only apply heat on the inside lite while the injector is on vacuum.

[Brent Deines]

I heat from the outside whenever possible. It takes far less heat to accomplish the same goals.

[PG Bullseye Repair]

How would you apply heat to the damaged area on the outside lite, if the injector is mounted over the damaged area?

[lorinser]

First can I ask if that was an old damage in a windshield, or a new one you just put in.

Secondly there is no need to drill a damage like that one at all, it has a wide open entry point.

Best of luck and keep practicing, however I would suggest you start off by making some of your repairs very wet once you get past basics, as this will make them more real life. I am assuming you have rain or moisture of some kind over there.over there.

most of the break is a new one on my windshield that i been working on for now.

when you mean is that i should practise those break with some water trap inside or?

[lorinser]

I know techs that don't do a scraping motion, they just put the razor directly on the glass right before the pit resin and slide the razor between the glass and the resin and remove it all one swipe, but most of the time you're pulling the resin out of the pit by using this method.......

Good luck to you and I hope this info is helpful

ATX

i guess this is where my mistake is.
what you posted now is exactly what i m doing for some repair now...hence i always get all those rough surface.

i will bear your info in mind for my next few repair,thanks so much.

[lorinser]

Whilst you are inside in a nice warm environment I would say heat is not required on those sort of breaks. Do not forget that heat causes the glass to expand and shuts the damage up, only for it to open once the expansion has subsided.

It would have been nice if you had answered my question from a few posts earlier.

yes,i do notice most of the legs are close up once i place my heater near the glass.
is this normal?

usually how long do we need to cool down the glass before we start the repair?

[lorinser]

To answer your last question first,heat from the outside if you are drying out a chip and heat from the inside to speed up the flow of resin...
(this should not be necessary unless it is cold (below freezing) and should be your last option "before drilling" if a leg wont fill )

If you didn't see the unfilled leg until after you cured either:

1-Some legs are almost invisible and thats why you should use a probe and put pressure around the impact point and see if any legs open up.
2-The leg was visible but disappeared when you applied heat (before heating count the number of legs "after probing" and make sure you see all of those legs fill)

You should complete the repair by drilling in the middle of the unfilled leg,pop a bullseye and fill from that point.
That is something you should learn because on some star breaks the leg wont be connected to the impact point and it is a technique used to anchor the end of long cracks.

Its good to see your not learning on a customers windshield.
Good luck

this is good.
i never tot of counting the legs before heating.

will do that in my next repair.
thanks

[lorinser]

Hi guys, I agree with Chipfix 100%, however I use one more trick that I have learned since using the Delta injectors, before I will drill (rarely drill at all) I remove the injector plunger, slide my probe into the injector body and flex the repair in the impact point to help move trapped air or small piece of fractured glass, I used this method 3 times today. I also only apply heat on the inside lite while the injector is on vacuum.

i do that too,but dont know it is right.

i do apply heat when the injector is on vacuum when i still see some bubble or air around the break.
is this the correct way?

will the heating damage the injector seal like this?

[lorinser]

How would you apply heat to the damaged area on the outside lite, if the injector is mounted over the damaged area?

so far i only heat from the inside.

maybe i m not that good or experience enough for such knowledge in repair.
but ever since i apply heat on most repair,it seem to be much more better than my previous repair that without using the heat.
some do say that heating was not neccessary at all if any,but i do get hooked on the heating now,i guess i m just as bad n poorly skill.

can i reveal to you all how i do it and do advise me if any wrong ok.

1) make a break on the windshield.
2) use a heater on inside to heat it (i also dont know why i must do this,i just heat it for the sake of getting the air out of the break)
3) place my injector on the break.
4) vacuum on the break.
5) inject the resin into the break.
6) will heat the glass again if there's still bubble or air trap inside.
7) tk out the injector n apply pit filler into it and cure with UV light
8) peel off the cured resin

i guess my last step always the cause to ruin my repair,that why i always get a rough surface after that.
i dont know why,the cured resin seem to be easily peel off in one whole piece after the UV curing.
is this normal?

i know i still got long way to go before i can actually go out with confident to do repair on customer windshield.
but i wont give up on practise and practise it.
hope you guys do bear with a newbie like me ya