Windshield Repair Forum

I dislike doing combinations with large impact holes.
Worse would be two large combos with large impact holes, side by side and interconnected by a crack thich runs through both of them and extends out of one side. At the end of the crack, there is 1/8 inch gap with no crack and then 1/8 inch crack. So the end of the crack is not connected.

Center at point of impact.

I pop where it needs it, on batswings this is normally centre of impact point, the slide hammer does a nice job in opening the damage up. I always drill before I start filling and before I start my dry out process.

When doing a damage with 2 pits make sure you fill one of the pits first, then if they do not completely fill place black insulating tape over the one that has not filled, when cured remove the tape remove the pit that you placed before attempting the fill and carry on as usual. Leaving both pits open will only let the resin flow out of one and is unlikely to create enough pressure to get to the edge of the damage.

Normally the impact point is the place to drill. On very small chips it is most times off to one side a bit and will produce a half bulls eye when popped. Half moons with impact points disconnected from the main break sometimes require drilling and popping halfway between the impact point and the edge of the break. This speeds up and improves filling quite a bit.

The two impact points that are interconnected can be a pain. Sometimes I do as Screenman does and sometimes fill the pits with very high viscosity windshield repair resin (pit fill or plate glass) so as to prevent penetration, then drill a hole through the cured resin into the chip and fill as normal. It's when you don't see something and start the fill and then realize that you have messed up that gets me. I have a large pit adapter from GW that helps a lot in some cases. You just can't put a lot of pressure on the resin when using it and/or it has to be torqued down tighter against the glass in a lot of cases.

The difference between an amateur and a professional is that a professional knows how to fix his mistakes. (Old Saying)

Hello, i'm new to the forum and I have trouble with the little batwings as well. A lot of times even when I drill I cant get them to fill. I think I'm going to buy the slide hammer and try poppin a small bullseye. If delta doesn't recommend that, what do they suggest?

The Slide Hammer is used to terminate the end of long cracks. When doing the repair do you see any black, green, or shininess? Below is a recent post from Brent that should be helpful, but feel free to call in as we would be more than happy to walk you through a repair.

Brent Deines wrote:Using Delta Kits equipment and resins you will rarely have to drill. To test prior to starting the repair I use a probe and gently press on the impact point. If I see movement in the airspace and/or in the cracks radiating from the impact point I am confident that I can fill it without drilling. Generally speaking that means if there is damage to the surface at the impact point I won't have to drill. On very rare occasions I find that I can't get the break to fill without drilling, but that is less than 1% of the time.