Windshield Repair Forum

I would definitely give the curing tape tabs a go. I cut up some curing tape yesterday for this purpose and the 6 breaks I did yesterday with the tape did not have bubbles show in the pit.
It has been my experience so far (with these air bubbles) that they show up mostly on drilled holes and not in "natural" breaks.

glassdoctor wrote:Keep the resin in a vacuum prior to use, to remove any air from the resin. Every good repairman has a vacuum chamber in his tool bag... it's what separates us from the average guy lol.

Actually, I have a Mighty Vac in my kit.
It comes with a plastic reservoir for removing brake fluid.
You could put the open pit resin container inside the reservoir , seal the input to the reservoir and pull a vacuum and leave it there overnight.
You might have an idea there.

ssbogger wrote:I would definitely give the curing tape tabs a go. I cut up some curing tape yesterday for this purpose and the 6 breaks I did yesterday with the tape did not have bubbles show in the pit.
It has been my experience so far (with these air bubbles) that they show up mostly on drilled holes and not in "natural" breaks.

That's encouraging! Thanks for posting back ss

Hope you all have a great weekend!


Cheers,

Pommy

Often not using the thicker pit filler and curring with the regular resin will solve the problem of a air bubble between the two. if there isnt a big piece missing just a small drill hole the pit filler isnt neede in many cases

So just cure the Magnibond (in this case) ?

Cheers,

Pommy

Most suggestions I had have been presented. It is so hard to tell from pictures as some looked like they were taken inside the vehicle and others outside. Looks to me more like an open surface cavity not a bubble issue. Are you applying the pit resin directly in the pit or on the glass surrounding it befor curing? I perfer to apply it out side the pit and allow the tab to gently push the resin into the pit. Allow the tab to settle naturally flush with the glass using no finger pressure on the tab. That looked like a good size pit so also make sure to use enough resin that you kept stored upside down. Hope that helps unlock your mystery.

Thanks for the input SGT

They were all taken from outside by the way.

I put the resin just under, like you described.

Last week, I trialled not using anything to cover the pit.

I didn't get bubbles, but it was very wasteful and sometimes difficult to get the filler higher than the glass.

It also seemed to flick off the screen and not bond - like when hydrophobic coatings are present?

From what I've experienced - I think the cure tabs are too thick and draw the pit resin up, which vacuums the air, if any, from the break.

Cheers,

Pommy

SGT wrote:Most suggestions I had have been presented. It is so hard to tell from pictures as some looked like they were taken inside the vehicle and others outside. Looks to me more like an open surface cavity not a bubble issue. Are you applying the pit resin directly in the pit or on the glass surrounding it befor curing? I perfer to apply it out side the pit and allow the tab to gently push the resin into the pit. Allow the tab to settle naturally flush with the glass using no finger pressure on the tab. That looked like a good size pit so also make sure to use enough resin that you kept stored upside down. Hope that helps unlock your mystery.

There you go, straight from the 2009 WSR champions mouth. Keep your pit resin upside down prior to using it. Why? Because if you don't you might induce air every time you invert it. Common sense always prevails. I also apply the pit resin as he does with tab. Never had a bubble issue.

Thanks for quoting the information.