Bubbles in the pits

[glassdoctor]

Gotcha, but I meant the pit tape must be thin (flimsy?) not the resin. No?

[Coitster]

Yea the tape is very flimsy.
David
Coitster

[johnnyone]

I use a thin flimsy tape like colister uses because I like the finished smooth surface on the repair,,even when I scrape it smooth,,,it looks less noticable which make it hard to find.... Then the customer said where is it?
This tape doesnt have the same out come all the time,,not sure why but I will try to figure it out and pass it on..
My bubbles usally come from a drill hole that is deep and thin,,,when I apply the pit it doesnt want to go all the way down to the bottom of the drill hole I try to hold the resin in place with the tape and push it back and forth with the tip of the pit bottle,,,,if that doesnt work I use a drill tip and push it in the hole to force the air out keeping it full of pit resin then gently pushing the tape over it.
As far as using seran wrap one WSR company did sell me some ,it didnt work very well had to get rid of it. Then a friend of mine told me that they use the back of the film from window tint. the one they through away and I worked great ,,still use it

[GlassStarz]

Michael Jacksons chimp is in the pits?
Seriosly though I have to go with the air in the pit resin theory

[Repair1]

Air Bubbles, Shrinkage, Cure Tape, Cure Tabs, Pit Filler, O my hell this went every direction this is my take on all this.

Well I think this started off with a shrinkage problem from what I gather? Usually when this happens it

[glassdoctor]

I figure I should repeat something real quick... I observed a big difference between stiff and flexible cure tabs, with everything else being the same. Same resins, methods, etc... and after several months, I can say that it has to be the tabs that made the difference. If I ever find otherwise, I'll update what's going on.

Others may find different results based on your resins, methods, conditions, etc. That's what I am curious about... if anyone else has seen any patterns or changes that make a big difference for you. The bubble issue can be myserious... a lot of techs have reported bubble problems that seem to pop up every once in a while for no apparent reason.

It's just interesting to me and there is no way one guy can experiment with every possible combination of variables while working for a living.

If anybody is getting these bubbles, try a thinner cure film. I would like to know if it works for others.

And I do use good pit filler, btw. As far as I know anyway.

R1, is your "polish hide" pretty smooth, like the old chamois cloths? I tried a piece of leather once, but I think it was too rough. It was from a slingshot I think. I probably should see if I have an old pair of deerskin gloves around here.

This reminds me... I have some buffing compound that I bet would work great with a piece of leather. It a very fine grade for buffing laquers, etc. I have used it with my cottom dremel wheel and it works really good. But then so do other polishes if you use a wheel buff.

[boyd]

My two cents worth, I very rarely have this problem and here is, what I think, is why. I apply my pit resin just above the pit and allow it to run down into the pit. Sometimes I have to, ever so gently "rake" it into the pit. This allows the pit to fill from the bottom up. Don't just squeeze a drop of resin onto the pit and assume it's going to go to the bottom. Also, by applying the resin above the pit you can "rake" out unneccesary tiny bubbles before they run down into your pit.
BOYD

[sunshine wr]

I have good results by curing my resin about 30 seconds without a cure tab, then apply pit resin and cure tab and cure. My theory is under cure light the resins shrink at a different rate and seperate from each other causing an air bubble between the 2 resins . as for polishing I use the the 1'' cotton dremel wheel with regular pit polish ,put polish on the wheel, hold the wheel between my thumb and index finger and rub. Once the cotton gets loaded with polish you can do a spit shine! Just add polish to wheel as needed.

[glassdoctor]

sunshine, I do about the same with the polish wheel also. You cure method sounds a bit like what Janvil has recomended. They say to fill the pit part way with pit resin and cure a bit then add more resin and continue curing... 2 or 3 steps if it's a deep pit. I have tried that... layering the filler, and it does work well. It just takes a bit more time. I still do this occasionaly with a really deep pit just to be sure.

boyd, I know what you mean about filling from the bottom up... I do the same. But the bubbles I was referring to only appear during the cure, they aren't just trapped air bubbles in the resin.

One other thing that we all may do different is how much chip resin we leave in the pit before filling it with pit resin. I don't leave any "chip" resin in the pit, but I soak it up and then use the pit reain on the pit. I recall reading one tip that said to cure the chip for a minute before doing the pit fill, the guy thought that this helped avoid the bubble too.

I wonder if this method has any impact on the durability of the pit fill... but it takes quite a while to completely cure chip resin that is exposed to the air, so I doubt anyone really does this.

Good tips...

[GlassStarz]

Ive been playing with this for a couple days I can get bubbles pretty consistantly when the glass is warm and outside temp is not or if I do the repair outside and dont cover the injector to block the sun(yeah I know some of you use dem der fancy uv shields I use a dark towel) also if the resin is cool but the glass warm I made a couple. I have never had a problem with bubbles but decided to play around to find what would cause em as a final I shook both the resin and pit bottles and whammo got more than any of the other ways combined. any ideas Jeff? Bear in mind I live out in the woods and get bored easy when snowed in.