Windshield Repair Forum

Here are a few photographic suggestions A polorizing filter will help, also try taking the pic from the inside of the car. To help with focus put a coin or something on the WS beside the break and focus on that, some camera's with auto focus don"t find a star big enough to focus on and will focus on something past the glass. Hope these help.

Merci

I would only try this re-repair process during practice or demos that are No Charge. Once the damage is repaired ...it is really a one shot deal.

Nixquay.

Sorry mate I have to disagree with you on this one I have done 5 rerepairs (?? is that a proper word or have I just made it up) this week doing this type of work does require experience but like all other things in our trade there is variables a combination that has been filled badly when it is wet will never repair as well a second time as the starbreak that someone just wiped some pit finish on and called it a job, These will quite often repair well a second time as long as you can make a entry hole and reconnect all the legs. I will often burn the resin out of a badly filled bullseye and refill with some success although I do not recommend eveyrone tries this.

I agree with you Screenman. Three and may be even two years ago I would have said no way to redos. I now will try them, as long as I don't think I will make them worse.

I found that you need to watch your wording if you want to be paid through insurance on a re-repair or re-do. I made a near perfect bullseye repair and then spent twice as long on redoing someones botched star. I cleaned it up and it looked good. When I put the claim through they said sorry we do not pay to fix a chip twice. Only lost ten bucks, but i think of
that as covering the ACT processing fee.

Redoing a repair? I am in an area where the local installers give free repairs to all the dealers. The repairs don't look as though they have been touched!! Not even pit filler!! One of the ford dealers I work for had a sales mans rig that they fixed and he had us redo the thing and I asked if he was sure they worked on his vehicle cause it appeared as though it hadn't been touched. He watched them do the the entire process. He said the bridge was only on there for like 2 min. My guess is they forgot to add resin :eusa_thin anyway it isn't hard to improve a repair that hasn't been injected!! I have also done some that were filled but not full by drilling to the pocket or drill and pop a mini bull then fill as usual. How do you burn the resin out Screenman? Could you expound on the process for us? Grats, Scott

I'm sure it goes without saying, but:

Delta Kits does not recommend trying to burn resin out of a break

If our resin is cured, I seriously doubt it would work without affecting the laminate.

Correct Jeff, but hacks don't use quality resins, so it can be circumvented with a little heat(I am not sure that the term burning it out paints an accurate picture).

Merci

I have redone repairs where heat with a torch will make the cured resin melt and run up out of the pit.

I don't understand! What is the motivation to redo a repair? If it takes so much heat to liquify cured resin without breaking the w/s, is it possible the break was repaired sufficiently but just did not look okay? Do the customers request that you redo the repair or were you called out to a job and find that the break has already been repaired? I can't for the life of me understand using so much heat.
We've all seen some ugly repairs but do we honestly think that they will all break if not re repaired! Just because an old repair has a few black spots or maybe one or two little lines not completely filled does not mean they will break again. Sure, it's up to the customer whether they would like us to try a redo, but I'm just getting a sense of the dollar, here. And sure, some of those ugly repairs will break again but, will they?
Most of us have done re repairs and have success with whatever process used, I just bite my lip when I read about using so much heat. I've stated this before and hold my ground!