Drill Holes
Re: Drill Holes
I know every situation is different, but how long do most techs let the resin cure after drilling? ex. (10 min.) Do certain rocK chips require more time? When do you know you've done a good job curing th chip? Thanks in advance for the help.
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Re: Drill Holes
Um, might want to try watching that again.BPIZ wrote:I went back to some of the earlier posts on drilling. Everyone says never drill all the way through the first layer of glass. So I get out my Delta training dvd and watch it again. The guy on the dvd drills all the way through the first layer. Whats up with that?
We advocate NOT drilling in 99% of the cases with our system. The only times you would drill are to stop a long crack, for an excessively large pit (much glass missing), or on a stubborn break that refuses to fill.
The only time you need to drill to the laminate is when doing a repair where the broken piece of glass is larger than the diameter of the injector/seal. In this case, if you put the bridge on, resin will leak since the seal does not cover the hole. Before doing anything to that break, apply pit resin, cure, and scrape. At this point, drill to the laminate. Once you have the drill hole, put the bridge on like normal and fill the break from below. That is the only case you would want to drill to the laminate. It will be very seldom that you will see a break too large for the injector, but not too big to repair.
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Re: Drill Holes
The length of time usually depends on the type of curing light that you are using. The stronger the wattage the shorter the length of time needed to cure. I use a 15 watt cure lamp and it usually takes 2 to 3 minutes curing under pressure and 2 to 3 minutes curing after you tab the break.
Re: Drill Holes
How long do most people leave the injector fill the chip before curing. I hope i don't sound petty, but i just want to know what others are doing out there. Thanks again
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Re: Drill Holes
Welcome to the forum and to WSR Coachb,
Leave your injector on untill it fills the damage entirely plus a couple of minutes for good measure. An extra cycle won't hurt and we have found the repairs look better too. While Jeff is correct I/We do just as he described, except that when needing to reduce the pit size to achieve a good seal we have found that if you use caution and just fill the edges of the pit area enough to get a good seal you won't have to drill at all. When applying the pit filler just dab enough to shallow up the pit using caution not to cut off any of the legs on a star etc... Sometimes you will have to reopen an area that doesn't want to fill in which case the drill comes out but we will never drill to the laminate. Doing that will reduce the integrity of the shield drastically and could result in a serious problem in an accident. If the laminate fails as a result of the damage done via the drill a person could be ejected in an accident and the resulting liability won't be worth the effort or dollars etc.. Besides if you work at it you can get a good fill without disturbing the laminate so why not? Oh and when using this technique use a drop of resin to prep the surface, scribe it in and then apply the filler to promote adhesion, what I mean is to dip your scribe in resin and then scratch the area where the pit filler will be applied then put the pit filler and cure. You need to use caution so as to not put too much of the low vis resin as it will want to enter the break and seal off some of the area you want to fill after curing at the same time enough to wet the area that the filler will contact. If this occurs just drill and pop to reopen then proceed so you see there is no reason to disturb the laminate. I am not suggesting that Jeff or Delta means to instruct any one to damage the laminate but it is very difficult to drill to the lami without damaging it so just to be safe avoid drilling that deep. It is not necessary, I hope you find the answers your looking for and good luck
Leave your injector on untill it fills the damage entirely plus a couple of minutes for good measure. An extra cycle won't hurt and we have found the repairs look better too. While Jeff is correct I/We do just as he described, except that when needing to reduce the pit size to achieve a good seal we have found that if you use caution and just fill the edges of the pit area enough to get a good seal you won't have to drill at all. When applying the pit filler just dab enough to shallow up the pit using caution not to cut off any of the legs on a star etc... Sometimes you will have to reopen an area that doesn't want to fill in which case the drill comes out but we will never drill to the laminate. Doing that will reduce the integrity of the shield drastically and could result in a serious problem in an accident. If the laminate fails as a result of the damage done via the drill a person could be ejected in an accident and the resulting liability won't be worth the effort or dollars etc.. Besides if you work at it you can get a good fill without disturbing the laminate so why not? Oh and when using this technique use a drop of resin to prep the surface, scribe it in and then apply the filler to promote adhesion, what I mean is to dip your scribe in resin and then scratch the area where the pit filler will be applied then put the pit filler and cure. You need to use caution so as to not put too much of the low vis resin as it will want to enter the break and seal off some of the area you want to fill after curing at the same time enough to wet the area that the filler will contact. If this occurs just drill and pop to reopen then proceed so you see there is no reason to disturb the laminate. I am not suggesting that Jeff or Delta means to instruct any one to damage the laminate but it is very difficult to drill to the lami without damaging it so just to be safe avoid drilling that deep. It is not necessary, I hope you find the answers your looking for and good luck
My best mentor one said " be fair with your priceing but never too low, be honest with your customer/competition, when the day is done be sure you have done "good works", and always leave something of value on the barganing table!!
While my friend and trainer/ mentor Ray has moved on, his words live.
While my friend and trainer/ mentor Ray has moved on, his words live.
Re: Drill Holes
Jeff, I totally agree with you that the video says that you should rarely ever have to drill. The part that I am talking about is when the guy does drill he drills through the first layer. Nothing is said about damaging the laminate. Also, I use Delta's kit and I love your product. I am not trying to badmouth anyone, I just think that could be explained a little better.
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