Windshield Repair Forum

On stars half dollar to dollar coin size, I vac 5 to 10 minutes to get as much air out as possible on the first vac cycle. This may seem like a long time but, I've found it takes (me) alot longer and alot more glass manipulation than if I quickly release resin into a star and a leg doesn't fill and you have to pull air through resin in a half filled leg. Boy! I hope all that makes sense. this is with GW tools.

LOL thats what I do on the giant stars like that. I start out hitting it hard with a big vac. Maybe I could still shorten up my pressure though

Jeff

GlaswelTech,
No I am not using glassweld tools at the moment and I agree as I said in a previous post stars etc. will continue to fill all be it slowly when left. I prefer to work a break and get it finished and onto the next repair. I do not like to work any more time than I need to at my age time is precious.

Thanks to everyone for their input on this subject and many others.

crackfxky.. I'll bet that was comfort glass...repairs on that type of glass never look good..so don"t get flustered...

A few more of my ideas on this. Once you have pulled a vaccum if you do not have resin in the break is it not empty and a void. If you turn a glass of water upside down and empty it, can you empty it more than empty? I see a reason for applying time to allow the air to pull through resin but not air through air. Yesterday as promised I made 2 identical breaks and allowed one to stand with uncured resin in for abot 30 mintues before curing and the other I did with my normal method both using Delta equipment. There was a distinct pressure mark around the rapair that had stood longer. Maybe our findings on uncured resin softening PVB are correct. Or we put more resin in that injector which caused more pressure.

Screenman, I'm not sure if you are speaking to my post #21 or not. But, IMO the glass can be "empty more than empty" if you also remove the air from it. a.k.a. vacuum. Again, I would like to stress, this is how I was taught to repair and it works well for me. I'm not saying that any one method is right or wrong.

What is comfort glass?

comfort glass is usually amber in color or looks tinted they defrost window in winter..repairs always look terrible..but still repaired...

Sunshine I agree with the empty and vacuum bit, but once you have drawn the vacuum on a chip that does not yet have resin in why wait, Surley the vacuum says it all. As for doing as you were trained we have trained lots of guys who have been trained elsewhere and some of the things they where taught to do you would not believe. Always question your teacher's teaching's. We have had guys turn up that were told there is never a need to dry out, always start your cure from inside the screen LOL and lots more.
A science tells us as yet we only no what is wrong and not what is right.

If it works for you and you are happy and do not want to experiment that is fine.

Have a great weekend everyone.

As you know I use GW, so I do have resin on or just above the glass @ the open point of the chip which the air in the break has to bleed through. I don't believe that the repair is instantly under complete vacuum as soon as the injector is set into vac mode.