Air bubble in the repair

[GlassStarz]

like I said before when there is no divot to fill thats when i pass on the pit filler lots of breaks have nothing on the outside other than a contact point smaller than the head of your bit often you have to rub your finger on it to even find it I dont drill so i dont make it bigger result is I can pass on the pit filler no pit means no pit filler

[jayjacque]

Interesting subject. I'm kinda like you StarQuest. Always use a pit filler no matter what. I can remember a long time ago trying to shortcut without it on some and then later going back to those car lots and seeing that there was a little pit showing that looked ugly. So ever since then I always pit fill whether I drill or not. But honestly I can't remember if those pits that looked ugly later were from drilled out repairs or not.

[splitpit]

There is most always some sort of impact point pit, whether large or small.
That exposed pit, regardless of size, should be filled with pit resin for optimum lasting visual results.

[GlassStarz]

And some people put the right sock on first then the left result is the same in the end
Back to the original question if you skip the pit one time and check the result and find no bubble its coming from somthing you are doing between when you have remover the injector and applied the pit filler if this is the case i would tryone of 3 things
1. pressure cure see if the bubble is coming from off gassing during the cure
2. change to a thinner pit filler
3. cure complete before applying pit filler and tab

[splitpit]

Apparently some people leave home only half dressed too! lol

[Gedis]

thanks for all the replies... today I was watching where is the bubble coming from... and I did see it pop up... ok, here is the scenario...
I filled up the star, came out to be perfect with no air lines nor bubbles. Removed the injector and still no bubble... Then I put the pit filler. I let it go down itself as I applied the drop right above the pit. There was no bubble nor a single line that u could see. I put the curring tab on and left it in the sun to cure it so I could watch... first 10 seconds nothing happened and then I see tiny air bubble pop up where one of the legs were (even though you couldnt see anything in there).... air bubble got stuck underneath the thicker resin....
So I let it cure all the way, scraped it of and then decided to drill again and see if I could refill it with resin again and then cure it with no problem...
Filled it up, with no air bubbles in the pit... once it was done curring, another air bubble came up, but this time I didnt see where it came from....
Is there any way that my resins are bad or something??? what am I doing wrong??? it is getting frustrating...

[screenman]

As you describe, the only resin that was not cured on the second attempt was the pit fill, as I have said before try a new one. Like a bottle of pop the bubbles will rise when curing from the bottom of the pit or resin. I would suggest that the air bubble in the first attempt only appeared to come from a leg.

[Brent Deines]

If the air did actually come from one of the legs, all of the air may not have been removed in the first place. In training classes some technicians will remove the bridge as soon as the cracks appear to be completely filled, but we always have them do one extra vacuum and pressure cycle just to make sure that there is no air compressed at the end or edges of a crack. Often times this extra step will reveal that there was still a tiny pocket of air hiding somewhere within the damaged area. This air can be difficult if not impossible to see, but can migrate to the surface, or near the surface depending on how fast the curing occurs.

If you have not already tried this, start with an extra 2 or 3 vacuum and pressure cycles just to make absolutely certain all the air is removed. If that works, then reduce the number of extra cycles until you are getting the best possible results with the fewest cycles. 30 seconds is just a basic rule of thumb, so be sure you leave the injector in the vacuum cycle until you no longer see any air rising to the surface. The same is true with the pressure cycle.

Also, be sure you are always completing the repair and removing the bridge in the pressure cycle.

I should add that much of my advice is specific to DKI injectors. I disagree with curing under pressure as it should only be necessary in very rare circumstances with DKI products, however if you are curing under pressure, I would then have to agree with Screenman and others that the issue has to have something to do with the pit resin. Still, the whole issue with gassing has never been something I have experienced with DKI resins, which is why your problem is a bit perplexing to me.

If we can get you to a training class and you can reproduce the problem you are experiencing, I have no doubt we can solve it very quickly, but barring that I must say there has been a lot of good advice on this topic, so hopefully one or more of the suggestions will be of some help to you.

[Gedis]

Thanks Brent. When I was in training class, I did not have that issue and when I got back I did not have that issue too. I do use 2 or 3 extra vacuum and pressure cycles. Well, I will try to keep the bridge a little longer and see how that comes out.

[Brent Deines]

No problem. That's the part that has me stymied. It would seem that something in the process has changed, but with all the advice that has been offered I can't believe none of us have stumbled upon the problem yet.

I am confident that there is not a problem with the resin, but just to eliminate one more possibility, I would be happy to replace it free of charge. Just give us a call to make arrangements.

I don't blame you for being frustrated, I have been pulling my hair out trying to figure out what the problem could be ever since you called.

Any chance you can make it to Vegas for the NACE show next month?