Windshield Repair Forum

At a vaccuum of 28.67 which a Mityvac will pull and hold, the boiling point of water is reduced from 212f to 86f I would say every little helps.
As for why the Drystar is quicker than the torch I think lies in the amount of glass it heats up. Due to the cooling ring fitted to the drystar the area is very small, thus allowing the area to cool again far quicker and this is what we want.
Now if I am correct and Novus still do it the same way the used to, they advise warming from an area about 3 inches away from the damage and working inwards. Cannot see the point in this myself as it is the chip I am, working on not 3 inches from it. When I use a torch I just go straight for the centre if it is a bullseye, if a star I will work as close to the extremities of the legs and heat them enough to close them and chase the water out.

Would I use either of these on a no crack waste of time, definately compressed air is the way to go. Now after 20 years of wet screens 300 days a year I am sure someone will tell me better. I am still willing to learn.

Someone mentioned an adaptor for the Mityvac earlier, Novus make a good one but of course in the desire to make the trade a better place they will not sell it to you. Mityvac sell a mushroom style adaptor with their car tuning kit and we have made many, with just a little effort and a suction cup.

Drystar is now my first course of action when drying out and that is after 16 years of using a torch.

screenman;27596 wrote:At a vaccuum of 28.67 which a Mityvac will pull and hold, the boiling point of water is reduced from 212f to 86f I would say every little helps.
As for why the Drystar is quicker than the torch I think lies in the amount of glass it heats up. Due to the cooling ring fitted to the drystar the area is very small, thus allowing the area to cool again far quicker and this is what we want.
Now if I am correct and Novus still do it the same way the used to, they advise warming from an area about 3 inches away from the damage and working inwards. Cannot see the point in this myself as it is the chip I am, working on not 3 inches from it. When I use a torch I just go straight for the centre if it is a bullseye, if a star I will work as close to the extremities of the legs and heat them enough to close them and chase the water out.

Would I use either of these on a no crack waste of time, definately compressed air is the way to go. Now after 20 years of wet screens 300 days a year I am sure someone will tell me better. I am still willing to learn.

Someone mentioned an adaptor for the Mityvac earlier, Novus make a good one but of course in the desire to make the trade a better place they will not sell it to you. Mityvac sell a mushroom style adaptor with their car tuning kit and we have made many, with just a little effort and a suction cup.

Drystar is now my first course of action when drying out and that is after 16 years of using a torch.

You are right about the boiling point of water being reduced from 212 to 86 in vacume.The problem is how many 86 degree days do you have moisture problems with? ( I guess you would not be the one to ask thisLOL)I read temps of well over a 100 degrees with my infrared on the windshields here in the south on most days..I would think that if it was just after a rainey period the mityvac set up would be an improvement.Any temp less than that would look like a waste of time.
Anybody that can do a quality repair in your area of the world is a true craftsman.With your experience in wet enviroments I think you just might know what you are talking about.I thank you for the tips I have picked up here from you and others.

By using a vacuum device it gives me a longer window at which moisture will evaporate. If we heat the glass to 212 we know thw moisture will evaporate, we also know some will come off at a lower temperature. we have just found by combining heat and vacuum over here we get a better and quicker job done. Now not saying it will be the same as I believe everything is different over there maybe even the water.

If in doubt dry it out, this is something I have been telling techs for years. Until of course Delta comes up With a moisture compatible resin. No good Novus doing it they will not sell it to us.

I still struggle with how a company that does replacements can also do repair, for one to do well must be at the cost of the other surely.

Now if someone offered you $50 or $250 which would you take go one be honest. $50 being what you earn for repair $250 for replacement.